Hi,

Can this be checked, without removing the headlight?

Thanks

Sorry, but to be clear, are you saying that the car failed its MOT because the motor has failed?

yes

I don't know the exact answer to your question (others on this forum will be along later, I'm sure) but for now, if the motor has properly failed and is stuck in one position, I would think that provided the headlight aim is not blinding other drivers it would not be an MOT failure. Was the description of the failure "headlight beam incorrect" or similar? If so, with the motor as it is, try adjusting the beam with the screw adjusters. Maybe you had previously been relying on the motor to drive the beam downwards??? I think the testers always test the beam with the adjustment at its highest position (Posn zero, IIRC).

Nearside Headlamp levelling device inoperative (4.1.5 (a)) was the description.

One light moves and the other doesn't.

Presumably they've tested and the motor doesn't work.

4.1.5. Levelling devices

Make sure any manual headlamp levelling devices (driver controls) work by:

switching on the dipped beam headlamps

operating the manual levelling device

checking that the headlamp beams move up and down

returning the levelling device control to its original position

 

Defect Category

(a) Headlamp levelling device inoperative Major

(b) Manual levelling device cannot be operated from the driver’s seat Major

On a car of that age it's probably cheaper just to buy a complete used lamp unit.

But yes, if you've got access to the back of the light, you can test the level motor.

9 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Defect Category

(a) Headlamp levelling device inoperative Major

I'm amazed! I thought they were just a little extra for the driver's convenience. Thanks for clarifying. 

27 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

On a car of that age it's probably cheaper just to buy a complete used lamp unit.

But yes, if you've got access to the back of the light, you can test the level motor.

I've got a secondhand motor.

access? You mean jack the car up?

7 minutes ago, jake4777 said:

I've got a secondhand motor.

access? You mean jack the car up?

By access I just mean space to get your hand in.  If there's not enough space you'll have to remove the light cluster, and that means removing the side of the bumper to reach one of the screws.

 

28 minutes ago, alanfp said:

I'm amazed! I thought they were just a little extra for the driver's convenience. Thanks for clarifying. 

They're considered a safety item to avoid dazzling oncoming drivers while carrying heavy loads.

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

By access I just mean space to get your hand in.  If there's not enough space you'll have to remove the light cluster, and that means removing the side of the bumper to reach one of the screws.

 

Have you done this yourself?

How easy are they to replace? 

Do they need calibrating some how? As I don't know what level it's currently at.

1 hour ago, jake4777 said:

Have you done this yourself?

How easy are they to replace? 

Do they need calibrating some how? As I don't know what level it's currently at.

I haven't done it on a Ka, but they work the same on most cars of that era.

Very easy to change.  Remove the rear cover.  Then unplug the old motor.  Twist it until you can pull it straight backwards and out of the unit.  Then twist the new one in, plug it back in, and refit the cover.

I'm really not sure there'll be enough space in the Ka engine bay without removing the light cluster first though.

They don't need calibrating.  But if you plug it in while it's still loose and out of the light cluster, you can change the switch in the car to make sure it moves through every number.  I would expect it to be on - as default.  People rarely ever use them lol.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

I haven't done it on a Ka, but they work the same on most cars of that era.

Very easy to change.  Remove the rear cover.  Then unplug the old motor.  Twist it until you can pull it straight backwards and out of the unit.  Then twist the new one in, plug it back in, and refit the cover.

I'm really not sure there'll be enough space in the Ka engine bay without removing the light cluster first though.

They don't need calibrating.  But if you plug it in while it's still loose and out of the light cluster, you can change the switch in the car to make sure it moves through every number.  I would expect it to be on - as default.  People rarely ever use them lol.

Thanks

Hi,

Does anyone know if replacing a headlight with a different model no. will be ok?

Original is 97kg13006br

Replacement is 97kg13006bp

 

7 hours ago, jake4777 said:

Original is 97kg13006br

Replacement is 97kg13006bp

It's the same light just a different revision/batch.

I've got another motor, as the replacement was bad. 

New (secondhand) motor connected to headlight (Power cable only). Shaft / ball not connected, as wanted to test it was working first. Main power to headlight.

Move adjustment switch and it makes the right noises, but the shaft doesn't move. Should it? Or only when it's locked into the headlight?

Thanks

My mistake, the shaft does move, albeit very slowly.