MK2 - Stuck In Gear When Using Clutch Constantly In City

[Rob1969]

Hey guys i recently bought a 2012 petrol mk2 KA that needs some tlc, it looks a bit untidy but everything seems to be working ok. I plan to do a service on it soon. 

I drove to Bristol recently where the clutch was getting heavy use in the city centre, more than normal use. The gearstick was stuck in gear and it could not be forced out. I noticed the car was trying to move even though the clutch was fully depressed. I switched it off and this would let me put it into neutral, it happened a few times that evening. I use it regularly for work which is mostly town driving, 5 miles each way and i never get any problems. Any idea what it could be guys?

Rob

[TomsFocus]

Clutch drag.  

It could be the clutch plates or the master or slave cylinders at fault.  No easy way to determine which really.

Fortunately the slave cylinder is external on these, so no need to remove the gearbox to replace it.  Personally that's where I'd start, on balance of probability.

[Rob1969]

On 3/23/2024 at 8:21 PM, TomsFocus said:

Clutch drag.  

It could be the clutch plates or the master or slave cylinders at fault.  No easy way to determine which really.

Fortunately the slave cylinder is external on these, so no need to remove the gearbox to replace it.  Personally that's where I'd start, on balance of probability.

Many Thanks for your reply. Do you think there is a way to prove which part is at fault or is it just case of replacing the slave cylinder and hoping for the best? 😉 

[TomsFocus]

3 minutes ago, Rob1969 said:

Many Thanks for your reply. Do you think there is a way to prove which part is at fault or is it just case of replacing the slave cylinder and hoping for the best? 😉 

Well, you could measure the travel of the slave rod when it's disengaging fully.  Then again when it's dragging.  If the rod hasn't moved as far when it's dragging, that proves the fault lies on the hydraulic side.  But that's likely to be inconvenient in the city centre during rush hour.  

On larger models, I'd generally recommend starting with the master cylinder, as that's the easiest part to change.  Then if no better, remove the gearbox and change the full 3 piece clutch kit together, due to the high labour cost involved with removing the gearbox.  Though on these, as the slave is external, I'd start with the slave as the most likely option in my opinion. 

[Oriskany]

Make sure that the fluid reservoir is topped up sufficiently and try bleeding the clutch hydraulic system as air may have got in. Cheers.

[Rob1969]

On 3/25/2024 at 1:23 PM, TomsFocus said:

Well, you could measure the travel of the slave rod when it's disengaging fully.  Then again when it's dragging.  If the rod hasn't moved as far when it's dragging, that proves the fault lies on the hydraulic side.  But that's likely to be inconvenient in the city centre during rush hour.  

On larger models, I'd generally recommend starting with the master cylinder, as that's the easiest part to change.  Then if no better, remove the gearbox and change the full 3 piece clutch kit together, due to the high labour cost involved with removing the gearbox.  Though on these, as the slave is external, I'd start with the slave as the most likely option in my opinion. 

 

Ha ha thanks for help but like you said its not practical to do in a busy city centre plus my trip to Bristol was a one off. It has not done it again.

I bought some service parts so ill have a look for any leaks around the slave cylinder while im working on it. Do you know where its located? Ill look at replacing it if i cannot source any other fault.  

 

On 3/25/2024 at 5:18 PM, Oriskany said:

Make sure that the fluid reservoir is topped up sufficiently and try bleeding the clutch hydraulic system as air may have got in. Cheers.

 

thanks for your reply mate. The little round reservoir has broken off the little bracket so maybe its been dangling down in the past and lost fluid. I just recently noticed this.

[TomsFocus]

It's right on top of the gearbox, just under the battery tray. 

Worth checking the connector at the other end of that curly pipe as well.  (Not pictured)

[Rob1969]

On 3/26/2024 at 7:48 PM, TomsFocus said:

It's right on top of the gearbox, just under the battery tray. 

Worth checking the connector at the other end of that curly pipe as well.  (Not pictured)

 

Thanks for your reply mate it helps me loads. Ill be putting it up of wheel ramps soon for the oil change so ill get the battery try out and have a look and the other connector too? Thanks a million for posting the pic it looks easy enough to change if i need to 😉 

[KittyKa]

Just wanted to add, I had this problem on my Ka as well and I just bled the clutch and brakes and it hasn't happened since. Worth trying seen as hydraulic fluid is pretty inexpensive. Hope you figure out what it is!

[Oriskany]

On 3/26/2024 at 7:48 PM, TomsFocus said:

It's right on top of the gearbox, just under the battery tray. 

Worth checking the connector at the other end of that curly pipe as well.  (Not pictured)

Not a great design is it? Crud and rust builds up on the actuating rod which chafes against the seal eventually allowing grit and dirt into the cylinder body. When the piston moves it then allows wear to the seals and cylinder body possibly resulting in leaks and air ingress. Should perhaps have fitted a boot with bellows to protect against this, in production, like the one fitted to the gearshift shaft at the gearbox end on the Mk 1 Ka.

[Rob1969]

On 4/5/2024 at 4:16 AM, KittyKa said:

Just wanted to add, I had this problem on my Ka as well and I just bled the clutch and brakes and it hasn't happened since. Worth trying seen as hydraulic fluid is pretty inexpensive. Hope you figure out what it is!

Thanks for your reply. I will bleed the clutch and hopefully it will help. It briefly happened again recently, i pumped the clutch pedal a couple of times and it was operational again, could well be the same as your problem. If it does not fix it i will replace the slave cylinder as it does look like the likely culprit 😉 

 

On 4/5/2024 at 11:53 AM, Oriskany said:

Not a great design is it? Crud and rust builds up on the actuating rod which chafes against the seal eventually allowing grit and dirt into the cylinder body. When the piston moves it then allows wear to the seals and cylinder body possibly resulting in leaks and air ingress. Should perhaps have fitted a boot with bellows to protect against this, in production, like the one fitted to the gearshift shaft at the gearbox end on the Mk 1 Ka.

Thanks for your reply mate. Now you put it like that yeah it is a very poor design indeed. It certainly looks like its needs bled or replaced so that is what i plan to do first. 😉 

[KittyKa]

Sounds like a plan, let me know how you get on with it!