New Ford Owner needs guidance

[Dave B Jnr]

I have just purchased a 2019 (69 Plate registered Nov 2019) with a  1.5 EcoBlue 120 Zetec engine and having a code of P049B come up on the OBD. It suggests cleaning the EGR, but as a less experienced DIY mechanic am struggling to find the exact location as struggling to confirm which model of engine this is. Any help greatly appreciated

[unofix]

Does your engine look exactly like this one ?

[Dave B Jnr]

@unofix I think so, albeit a little dirtier as need to get round to deep cleaning the whole care. see attached image for comparison 

[loftpens]

Just had the exact same issue pop up on my Mk4 Focus Estate (2020) 1.5 EcoBlue 120. Getting it checked out by Ford but would be grateful for the location for future reference. 

[loftpens]

So following on, I managed to locate the EGR Valve based on part numbers and thorough Googling. Not much videos or anything available for this year, so I'm gonna say a few keywords for to attract any Googlers:

Ford Focus Mk4 2018 2019 2020 Estate EcoBlue 1.5 Diesel EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation OBD Code P049b Exhaust Gas Recirculation B Flow Insufficient Detected

I tried to get tothe EGR valve (part no. JN1Q-9M425, around £50 good condition 'used' on eBay), but after taking off the air intake hose and looking in it didn't look anywhere near as nasty as I expected based on 'clogged' EGR valves. I'm thinking this down to Ford's design for this EGR seems to be a different to some others I've seen in pictures and videos - the valve gate is right on the boundary of the valve so blockages happen before it - in the EGR cooling hose/pipe (part no. JN1Q-9F467) which runs directly below the EGR valve and is covered in a cloth like cover. 

Getting to that was a bit of a pain with all of the stuff in the way and for an amateur like me, removing as minimal as possible was the best option. I started by removing the jubilee clip for the air intake pipe, and disconnecting the 3 sensors on the EGR valve itself (circled in red in the pictures, 3 different types of attachment), one has a small sensor going into a hole in the casting which can be pulled out. I then loosened (not removed) the plastic frame surrounding the air intake where the wiring loom is attached to (5 big torx screws??), this gives a lot of room to work. I then removed the air intake assembly right from the filter box to the front vent by removing the two 2-part tapered plugs, and pulling the filter box out from it's rubber insulators after the lid (with delicate sensor, didn't remove) has been put aside. 

At this point, my torx head wouldn't fit into the gap between the radiator and the 2 bolts holding the EGR valve onto the engine. Doesn't matter anyway as what I was interested in was the hose below it, the EGR cooling hose/pipe. This is attached to the exhuast cooler near the base of the engine (silver box) and the bottom of the EGR valve via a rhombus flange each with 2x 8mm hex head bolts on both. Once all of the stuff mentioned above has been taken out of the way, it is fairly easy to get a ratchet socket spanner (mine was a mini Halfords one, perfect for the job) in there to remove the bolts. 

Be careful not to drop a bolt (or the socket) into the engine bay as if it's like mine and has got a bottom to it it's a bit hard to get back, it's a bit of a tricky setup and very limited room to work in. 

Once the bolts are removed, slide the EGR hose out. It's not very flexible which does help to remember the orientation it goes in, but difficult to get out. On the bottom of this hose should be a mesh filter with clips (no part number, couldn't find it). Mine was absolutely blocked up with thick soot that I couldn't see through it. My filter was also on the exhaust cooler (wrong??), the air flow should go INTO the dome shape and be clipped onto the EGR hose. The EGR hose was absolutely clean through - no problems there and though I didn't check the underside of the EGR valve I would imagine it is the same. All of the crud got caught in that mesh filter which must have then thrown me the EML for 'EGR Flow Insufficient'. 

I gave mine a spray with carb cleaner, let it sit for a few minutes, and blew it out with compressed air. Good as new. I also hoovered any loose stuff out of the exhaust cooler. Put it all back together again and hope the engine turns on. My EML was still on, even after warming up with a good drive. I reset the code with my machine and it hasn't yet come back on.

I hope this was helpful for anyone who comes across this. Any questions or additional pictures please do not hesitate to ask and if I've said aything wrong - please correct me! First time doing anything like this.  

I've tried to upload a picture of the mesh filter but for whatever reason it's not letting me so it's here https://i.imgur.com/ioWZG4D.jpeg

[Dave B Jnr]

Thanks to all for the guidance, @loftpens these instructions were amazingly useful, unfortunately although I could get the bolts out of the flange I couldn't move the hose up (its a solid pipe on mine) enough to get the filter out but having sprayed EGR cleaner into the system the warning light seems to have disappeared for now after a hundred miles or so down the carriageway.  I've a lot more confidence now to dig deeper if it reappears and/or the garage cannot sort it when they eventually get it in. I have also discovered that the EGR appears fairly accessible if I take the belly plate off and come  at it from below, albeit on a decent set of ramps.

[loftpens]

Glad it helped. Forgot to mention in the post yes my cooler pipe was solid so I had to slide and pivot it out. Pain to get back in but if it came out in a certain way it should go back in. 

I'm going to get some of that EGR valve cleaner to use every few K just as preventative maintenance. 

Though I manually cleared my code (it didn't go off after a hot but short drive), it hasn't come back on in 500 miles. My average MPG has also gone from 56.0 to 62.2 this could be a coincidence with the less wet roads and stuff but would sort of make sense if the engine was burning uncleanly/not to programmed mix due to not being able to recirculate properly. Also not sure if this is in my head or not but the car certainly feels a lot punchier, I did put a Wynns Xtreme cleaner in on half a tank and then do a 1h30 drive at 70+mph in 4th gear which might have helped everything along.