Are you sure standard Hammerite is rated to 300c? According to the datasheet it is 150c intermittent and 80c continuous. (It is 300F intermittent - perhaps that's what you read?)

I stand corrected. Have to go with the VHT which Goes much higher.

80 c constant 150 c intermittent will be fine wouldn't it? Don't the pipes reach 90 c approx but only when engine running and  up to temperature most of its time will be spent  with the engine off at ambient temperature 

It depends on what you'd class as 'continuous' vs 'intermittent'. It's a moot point in my view given that there are plenty of alternatives available with no doubts over their suitability (e.g. the Halfords engine paint discussed earlier in the thread). 

1 hour ago, cjay1 said:

80 c constant 150 c intermittent will be fine wouldn't it? Don't the pipes reach 90 c approx but only when engine running and  up to temperature most of its time will be spent  with the engine off at ambient temperature 

It doesn't work like that. You can't count the time when the engine isn't running in your definition of intermittent. If the temperature of the paint is 80 degrees during a 4 hour run, it would tolerate going to 150 degrees for a few minutes at a time. In any case, if the paint can take 80 degrees and the pipes run at 90 degrees, the paint is not suitable.

whilst I have not used hammerite on those pipes, based on my use of hammerite for various thinks over the years my gut feeling is it would not cope with the heat. 

13 hours ago, cjay1 said:

80 c constant 150 c intermittent will be fine wouldn't it? Don't the pipes reach 90 c approx but only when engine running and  up to temperature most of its time will be spent  with the engine off at ambient temperature 

I previously posted on here:

”So after a 30 minute drive at 80-120kmh in 30 degree C ambient heat the pipes reached 94 degrees C. The turbo body was 144. I'd expect the pipes wouldn't get over 125 degrees C, as that is what I've read the cutout temperature for the engine is.“

You really need proper high temp paint. Grill/bbq kill rust is suitable if you can’t find silver or black high temp paint. 

I've finally received my call from the CRC case manager. They will not authorise any work as 'The part is fully functional and we (Ford) do not believe this is a manufacturing fault'. They state that they belive the rust is caused by where the car is stored!!!!!  So my advice is - Don't buy an Ecoboost unless you can garage it every night! Looks like I'm going to Halfords for sanding paper and VHT paint. Luckily the car has 7k or until July on the warranty. I've decided to sell it. I'll not be getting another 1.0l Ecoboom.

That's very disappointing to hear, not least given the apparent inconsistency in how they are dealing with these cases. 

How can leaving it outside cause it to rust? Where does it say in the instruction manual it has to be stored a certain way? Is it fit for purpose if it can't be left outside?

The way Ford treats its customers is terrible. And to build a car that rusts at all, let alone so damned fast, is unheard of these days. It's not even a part that's constantly exposed to the elements. Maybe occasionally with water on the road, but as the pipe gets hot, it's physically impossible to stay wet for more than a minute or two after the car is switched off because the moisture evaporates off. For Ford to then claim that their cars break the laws of physics i.e. that they rust with the practical absence of water is absolutely indefensible and complete bull. It shows that they really have used materials beyond bargain basement level. They have been to the figurative jumble sale and found any old rubbish and shoved it on their cars. And then blame the customers once they have the money in the bank.

Maybe some of the people who derided me for my views have started to see that this really is a major issue.

This is the email I have sent to EH as advised by Ford in order to get the answer to why work was refused on the vehicle.

I am writing to requst the reason for refusal of remedial/repair/replace on my rusted turbo pipes on YA15 ACV. Please can you let me know why the part has rusted to this degree after only 30 months of age and the exact reason for refusal of work. Work has been done on other Ford Ecoboosts throughout the Ford dealership network ranging from scraping down and applying an Epoxy resin to full turbo replacement. I am aware that warranty do not cover this and am specifically asking why Ford are not supporting a customer who clearly has a fault with a vehicle. Also can you please advise whether or not my issue is related to Technical Service Bulletin 16-2088.
And this is the reply;

"We was advised but prior approval that If the pipe wasn’t leaking it didn’t need replacing.

 And the Workshop control also advised that the pipe wasn’t leaking so it didn’t need replacing,

 Kind Regards"

Apart from the poor grammar. They obviously do not want to openly deny that 16-2088 has anything to do with my problem so have avoided mentioning it altogether. I have again emailed and asked specifically about the TSB. I'm not holding out much hope.

so they want to wait until it does leak, chuck all its coolant out , then new engine/turbo. cant see the logic behind that as that is what will happen. they hoping it will be at 3 yrs and 1 day or more.

I have spoken to a claims company in order to use the Sale of Goods act. I have been told that I have to offer the original seller the opportunity to help with the issue. I bought the car in Harrogate at Lookers so I will be contacting them to progress my claim. The claims company state I am not to ask for any specific resolution but only mention the problem and if possible negotiate a settlement satisfactory to both parties. If no settlement can be agreed I can then progress my claim. Which may include compensation for distress and delay. Fun times ahead!

I have a 2014 Fiesta 125ps and had a look at my coolant pipes over the weekend. They seemed in good nick - but with a closer look, I could see a few tiny pin-prick sized rust dots on it. For the sake of a few quid, I went to Halfords and got myself the VHT Engine paint listed earlier in the thread and painted them. Probs more for peace of mind.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/specialist-decorative-paints/halfords-v-high-temperature-engine-enamel-paint-matt-black-250ml?request_type=bestseller

 

Only took a few mins to do and was easy enough to paint on - you just need to ensure it covers all around, which can be tricky as it gets tight, i'd recommend quite a small brush.

9 hours ago, Crafty14 said:

I have a 2014 Fiesta 125ps and had a look at my coolant pipes over the weekend. They seemed in good nick - but with a closer look, I could see a few tiny pin-prick sized rust dots on it. For the sake of a few quid, I went to Halfords and got myself the VHT Engine paint listed earlier in the thread and painted them. Probs more for peace of mind.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/specialist-decorative-paints/halfords-v-high-temperature-engine-enamel-paint-matt-black-250ml?request_type=bestseller

 

Only took a few mins to do and was easy enough to paint on - you just need to ensure it covers all around, which can be tricky as it gets tight, i'd recommend quite a small brush.

 

Did you remove the small amount of rust before you painted the pipes?

18 hours ago, Vendee said:

Did you remove the small amount of rust before you painted the pipes?

Personally, I didn't as it was just tiny dots. But, if it was any worse I would have

2 hours ago, Crafty14 said:

Personally, I didn't as it was just tiny dots. But, if it was any worse I would have

It will continue to corrode under the paint. Perhaps not as quick as if it was exposed, but it will still corrode.

Without exposure to air and water it won't. Ferrous oxide cannot form without them. 

A metallurgist friend has told me that paint will slow down the rust considerably but it needs to be reapplied regularly. if the paint flakes or cracks the problem will reappear. 

Absolutely - if the hermetic seal of the paint fails then it will no longer exclude air and water. It shouldn't need regular application though if the right paint is chosen (temperature tolerance in particular) and surface cleared of loose rust and oil/grease beforehand. 

The problem is that paint will not adhere properly to FeO and its sheathing properties are greatly diminished with a good chance of break through. 

That's not what I've found with special purpose paints like these. Indeed most are designed for direct application to rust as that is a common usage for them (ie preventing further corrosion). All they require is removal of loose rust and dust as they will obviously not function as a secure base. 

The problem is there is no paint that is direct to rust and VHT. An extreme solution would be an application of high temp flue tape followed by a coat of VHT.

https://apetape.co.uk/Item/kapton-polyimide-tape-9mm

I think I'd sooner trust paint alone than anything involving tape for a gas-tight seal?