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Preee

Guide For Focus Mk2/mk2.5 C-Max/kuga ~Elm 327 Cable And Ff2 Program

2,517 posts in this topic

You can enable the Cruise Control option for the PCM with ELMconfig. At the moment all petrol versions (except the ST/RS) and the 1.8 and 2.0 TDCI engines are supported. The 1.6 TDCI is not supported yet (probably because it is not sold in Russia).

To enable the Cruise Control option go to the second page of the procedures screen of the PCM. Select the right PCM type for your car and click "Read the firmware from PCM in file" and "Read VID-block from the PCM" and save it to your computer.

PCM1-1.jpg

Next you can go to the PCM configuration screen. After the VID-block is previously read all of the settings from the PCM are pre-filled on this screen.

PCM2-1.jpg

Select the "Integrated Speed Control" checkbox and save the changed VID-block to your computer.

PCM3-1.jpg

Go back to the second page of the procedures screen. Now click Load VID-block from file and select the changed VID-block you saved to your computer. Next click Load firmware from file and select the original firmwarefile you previously saved. Next the Write current firmware in PCM can be clicked (before it was grey). Now the firmware and changed VID-block are loaded into the PCM and the Cruise Control should be enabled.

I tested the procedure on a spare PCM which I bought for testing of the PCM firmware update procedure of ELMconfig. This PCM was originally fitted into a car that did not had Cruise Control. I fitted this PCM into my car, reprogrammed the PATS system, updated the PCM firmware to the most suitable version for my car an activated Cruise Control. All programming went without any problems. I use an ELM327 interface with FTDI chipset which is configured at a Baudrate of 500.000.

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Thank you so much, great instructions! I currently have only bluetooth OBD2 interface, so I just ordered USB version which, according to seller, has genuine ELM327 chip and FTDI interface, so I hope I can get it to run at 500 000 bps...

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Ill have a usb one for sale shortly modified too works with my focus.

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Thank you so much, great instructions! I currently have only bluetooth OBD2 interface, so I just ordered USB version which, according to seller, has genuine ELM327 chip and FTDI interface, so I hope I can get it to run at 500 000 bps...

Be carefull what you may be buying is a unit that possibly wont work. You need the cheap chinese elm327 v1.5.

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Be carefull what you may be buying is a unit that possibly wont work. You need the cheap chinese elm327 v1.5.

Wait what? Genuine ELM327 won't work while fake one will? Really? Wow...

Edit: Well, already ordered genuine version, so we will see if it works. Though, cannot be assured that it IS genuine, it may be just as well chinese copy...

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Anyone having pictures of PCB of interface which works at 500 000 baus? I've been searching for pictures and while they layout is usually the same, there are some differences.,. Some units have more voltage regulators, extra crystal etc. I wonder what is needed to make it work...

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These are some pictures of my cheap Chinese ELM327 interface. It has the FTDI chipset and supports a Baudrate of 500.000.

P4170374-1.jpg

P4180375-1.jpg

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Inteesting, that is the most bulkiest design I've seen. No regulators etc. And yet still it works :O I suspect that more sophisticated designs shuold work just as well - I mean, I know not much about electronics, but regulators, oscillators etc. should help the performance, stabilize the chips and I/O, never prevent anything to work (unless there is design flaw which more bulkier version does not have)... Anyone having more complicated PCB which works? Ie. something like this:

3.jpg

I've been researching a bit and it really should work, if you can configure ELM327 chip for 500000 bus and FTDI chip for 500000 baud and your computer can handle it... Unless, again, there is some kind of design flaw on the PCB.

Genuine ELM327 should be able to handle 500 000 baud so I would be quite surprised it genuine chip would not work while chinese clone would...

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That isn't a genuine ELM you have pictured there, although the seller makes it read as if it is. I contacted them and it is not an original ELM chip. Also it is wired differently to the ELMs that are modified. If you check back a couple of paqes you will I purchased one of these but as it is wired differently as standard we didn't know if it would be safe to use.

Check out page 94 http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/31287-guide-for-focus-mk2mk25-c-maxkuga-elm-327-cable-and-ff2-program/page-94

If you have bought the same one, it is not suitable for modding.

Pree added a link a couple of pages back, I purchased an ELM327 from that seller and it runs at 500000. It has a red mother board inside.

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I bought this one (picture was from some other device just to illustrate differences...): http://www.ebay.fr/itm/ELM327-PRO-VERSION-2013-POUR-FORD-AVEC-VERITABLE-ELM327-100-ORIGINAL-/190866042745?pt=FR_JG_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces_Outillage&hash=item2c7080af79

I will see how it is wired after it arrives...

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If it is just wires which are different it should be easy enough to modify different type of interfaces also... I am mobile right now so it is hard to check but I have no reason to believe that differently wired devices would not work when rewired properly...

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That will be a risk you take if you modify a version that isn't tried and tested due to being wired differently as standard. It wasn't a risk I was willing to take.

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Yeah, well I am pretty confident about modding things as I know a thing or two about electronics, data communication protocols and software engineering... I am pretty sure that given proper attention to details, pretty much nothing harmful can be done by modding device which has a bit different design than tested ones...

Of course, you really need to see the device before anything can be said about one specific device... Let's see how my device is wired when it arrives... It may take couple of weeks though, seller is on holiday. I am a bit doubful though, that it will have genuine ELM327 chip...

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minimadgriff, I dont understand though. I checked out your pictures from page 94 and Pree's tutorial from page 1. Your device and Pree's device are wired exactly the same according to the pictures??? What did I miss?

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It is different if you compare the pin list I made, to Pree's picture of how you should mod it.

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It is different if you compare the pin list I made, to Pree's picture of how you should mod it.

Dude, it is not. Judging from your picture, your device is wired like this:

1 - NC

2 - Connected

3 - NC

4 - Connected (soldered to 5)

5 - Connected (soldered to 4)

6 - Connected

7 - Connected

8 - NC

9 - NC

10 - Connected

11 - NC

12 - NC

13 - NC

14 - Connected

15 - Connected

16 - Connected

Just like Pree's device (or my bluetooth device which I've modded). Just like every device I've seen?

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Coincidentally your wiring and Pree's wiring matches very well with OBD2 pinout:

2 J1850 Bus+
3 LS CAN Hi Low speed (125Kb) CAN bus. This bus used for some IC, RFA and other units.
4 CGND Chassis ground
5 SGND Signal ground
6 CAN High J-2284
7 K-LINE (ISO 9141-2 and ISO/DIS 14230-4)
10 J1850 Bus-
11 LS CAN Low Low speed (125Kb) CAN bus. This bus used for some IC, RFA and other units.
14 CAN Low J-2284
15 ISO 9141-2 L-LINE (ISO 9141-2 and ISO/DIS 14230-4)
16 +12v Battery power

J1850 Bus+ is connected, Chassis ground and Signal ground are connected together (you can do this usually), CAN High is connected as well as ISO 9141-2 K-LINE. Also J1850 Bus- is connected as well as CAN Low, ISO 9141-2 L-LINE and +12v. To sum it up, you have following things connected:

J1850

CAN

ISO 9141-2

Ground

+12V

Just like expected. And you want to add additional switch which allows you to re-wire CAN connections to LS CAN... Other option would be designing new device which would have both CAN and LS CAN connected at the same time...

Edit: You have numbered your pins wrong, that's the reason you got weird results... You "look" connector from the wrong end when numbering pins... Or you use female connector's pin numbering instead of male connectors :) Easy mistake to made, but really, your device is wired exactly the same than any other...

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Are you saying the connector was looked at from the rear rather than the front? From memory the pin numbers were on the back of the connector not the front where the pins come up out. I wasn't actually doing the mod on that one a friend was doing it for me. I shall open it up and double check tomorrow.

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Look at this picture:

20130213102233930.jpg

So when looking male connector from outside, pin no. 1 is on top right corner. When looking from inside, it's on top left corner. And when looking your picture from page 94, post 1406, picture 5 which is from the top of the connector:

1 - C

2 - NC

3 - C

4 - C

6 - C

7 - C

8 - NC

Etc. Could be, that if there is numbers written in to your OBD connector, that they are actually wrong. I would not be surprised that cheap Chinese connectors would be numbered wrong...

Edit: And yeah, of OBD2 connector pin numbering is reversed compared to more common and familiar DBx connectors. I would also have misnumbered the pins if I would not have checked numbering using Google... Wtf, who did design these connectors?

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Taken apart the original one I purchased that we thought was wired differently and the OBD connector isn't numbered at all (which is where the issue lies). Where as the replacement I bought was numbered.

You are quite right the connector has been looked at from pin end rather than the end with the soldered wires. So this one is wired the same way as long as you look at it the right way round, which isn't the logical way.

Well spotted. So this one can be modded too.

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Hi,

I have now got an EML327 to run at 500000. I bought the one in the link by PREEE on page 1. It was half the price of the one that doesn't work. It has the red board. Now I can use it.

Thanks

Lenny likes this

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Have you got a link to the one that didn't work at the right speed please? Will be handy so people can avoid it.

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Did yoyu flash PCM? While I am waiting my ELM327 interface, I'm trying to get courage to flash mine after it arrives :) Inb worst case scenario PCM will be rendered unrecovarable, I need new one and then PATS needs to be reprogrammed also etc. Not sure if I can do that by myself and Ford carages will take huge ammouns of money for that...

Edit: Is there information available about PATS system? I am currently googling about it quite a lot. How does it work, haven't found definitive answer yet? Key contains chip, steering wheel column contains transceiver which allows key to communicate with PATS? What modules are involved? Is it only PCM? So if PCM will be changed, then only PCM + keys needs to be reprogrammed so that everything works again? Can this be done without IDS? Yeah, I am preparing to enable cruise for my PCM, but I need to prepare for worst case scenario...

Thanks again!

Edit2: Ok, I learned this much:

"The A or D version of PATS does not store the key information in the PCM, therefore NO PATS KEY RELEARN IS REQUIRED after programming.

The B or C versions of PATS store the key information within the PCM and MUST be transferred to the new PCM, or relearned on the vehicle after the new PCM is installed.

The E version of PATS also stores the key information within the PCM, but CANNOT be transferred to the new PCM. This type MUST be relearned on the vehicle after the new PCM is installed

"

Source: www.bsecorp.com/files/techtips/FORD%20PATS.pdf

Focus mk2 has type E(?), so if new PCM is installed (and no keys are provided), PCM needs te be erased from previous keys after which new keys can be taught to it. Erasing can be done using Ford IDS, not sure if there are any alternatives to it...

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The PATS system of the Focus MK2 and MK2.5 is fully integrated into both the PCM and the instrument cluster. The transponder data is stored into the instrument cluster only. When the ignition is turned on and the transponder is recognised correctly the instrument cluster communicates to the PCM and allows it to switch the immobiliser off.

For more protection the instrument cluster and PCM are synchronised with each other. This is like a data file which is stored into both modules which needs to be the same. If these files do not match the car will not start.

If one of the PATS modules is changed the system needs to be reprogrammed before the car will start. First the transponder keys needs to be programmed into the instrument cluster. The Focus MK2 and MK2.5 uses the coded PATS system. To program this PATS system you need a suitable diagnostic interface which is able to program the Ford PATS system and an OUTCODE/INCODE generator. After the transponder keys are programmed the car will still not start because the instrument cluster and PCM are not synchronised. To solve this the PATS pairing procedure needs to be performed.

If the transponder keys are programmed and the instrument cluster and PCM are synchronised correctly the car will start without any problems.

The programming can be done without the Ford IDS system but you need a suitable diagnostic interface which is capable to program the Ford PATS system and an OUTCODE/INCODE generator. For PATS programming I use the FoCom interface which is developed for Ford vehicles. Combined with an online OUTCODE.INCODE generator it works perfectly.

Until now i have programmed 2 new folding keys for my car, changed my original MK2 instrument cluster for an MK2.5 instrument cluster and changed the PCM (for testing purposes). All without an expensive Ford dealer or the Ford IDS system.

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Great information, thanks! As I am software developer interested in electronics hardware, also very interesting information...

So in worst case scenario I need to prepare to take my car to Ford dealer or garage which is able to either reprogram PCM or change it and reprogram PATS - should PCM flashing fail using elmconfig... Then again, garage like that can turn on the CC in PCM anyways so I could just pay them to do it...

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