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My Mondeo


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#1 FOCA

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 07:29 PM

I thought i would start with the spec/ a list of modifications

 

Remaps/ etc -

 

Superchips Blufin rev3 remap

DTUK digital tuning box with custom remote adjust (can be used with remap, was not used on dyno run)  

 

Turbo

Fixed vane Garrett GT20 with wastegate and pnumatic actuator

Two - stage digital driver adjustable electronic boost controller, 100psi solenoid, anti-lag programme, defeat/ fail-safe (3 effective stages)

Anti- lag/ dump valve system for actuator/ wastegate (silent)  

Overboost pressure relief valve

Mechanical boost gauge 30psi (for now)

 

Inlet / etc -

 

One-off large diameter insulated CAIS,  

Gas flowed airbox/  stock filter

Resonator bypass

EGR delete/ shortened boost hoses

 

Intercooler -

 

Lightweight alloy aftermarket performance FMIC -  low lag drag racing design (low internal volume) chosen to fit in the available space 

External waterspray

 

Exhaust -

 

2-1/2" SS heatwrapped decat -

gas flowed heatwrapped downpipe 

Back- box delete

Straight - through 2-1/4" system with centre silencer

EGR delete on manifold

9.5kgs lighter - balanced for traction/ handling

To do - ceramic coat/ heatwrap the manifold which still has the stock heatshield

 

 

 

Trans

 

Mtx75 5-speed 'box

Solid flywheel conversion, dynamically balanced SMF to replace DMF

Carbon fiber and kevlar clutch - Heavy duty - 33% stronger - sprung plate

Short shifter (stock gearstick shortened and travel reduced by repositioning the cables)

Torque restrictor defeat switch (beside gearchange)

No form of traction control / ESP protects trans from torque  (de-ristricted in all gears/ at all revs)

 

Various -

 

Parasitic loads -

 

Electric waterpump now with electronic control (Oct 2013)

 

Aircon removal (- 11kgs) including pulley/ shortened belt

 

 

 

Two Digital electronic fan/ pump controllers with display of voltage, oil and water temp 2 channels of control  

 

Lighter

 

Total 150+kgs lighter (too much to list all)

 

Payload increased to 740kgs

 

Exhaust 9.5kgs lighter

Battery 6.5kgs lighter (With almost total LED light conversion/ solar panel )

Spare tyre / jack removed - 20kgs lighter (replaced with tyreweld/ floorpump)

"Lightest" wheels fitted 17.4kgs each w tyres (reduces unsprung / rotating mass too)

Back seat removed (25+kgs)

interior "gutted" back from C pillar/ "van" conversion

(may reverse the last 2 things/ fit lighter back seat)

Weight removed off back (50+kilos behind rear wheels) and left on front of car to improve traction/ handling

 

The lightening is arguably the most significant modification, acceleration, braking, is improved, payload increased, wear on many components reduced, MPG improved

 

IMG_0129-my mondeo boost gauge crop-745-+bright 50-10.JPG

 

Picture shows - manual electric waterpump off/ on (temporary - to be replaced with rocket arming switch for electronic boost controller) 30PSI mechanical boost gauge (in cup holder) two digital fan controllers, one with (selectable) water temp, oil temp or voltage display and one with water temp or voltage , each can control a radiator fan or waterpump to switch off/ on at almost any temprature with an overtemp warning buzzer as well, its a lot of displays/ gauges in a small space and is hidden in the ashtray, the switch is to arm the electronic boost controller - switch next to gearstick is for the  torque restrictor defeat   

 

I have many other mods - its a bit epic/ may edit this back a bit

 

Ive recently had the car tested on an independant dyno/ rolling road - (see later posts for more info)   



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#2 DanGersFord

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 09:01 PM

Awk you've hardly done anything. Was it realy worth posting a thread about it? Haha only kidding on. How much has all that improved performance/mpg?

#3 FOCA

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 10:35 PM

Awk you've hardly done anything. Was it realy worth posting a thread about it? Haha only kidding on. How much has all that improved performance/mpg?

A lot, its like a different car, its hard to remember how slow it once was

 

The car originally had 115PS and 209ft lbs of torque so with 162PS and 272ft-lbs and being 150kgs lighter it really flies

 

Thats just the peak figures but instead of the engine being "gutless" (in comparison) under 2k it pulls strongly from tickover and revs to the redline (a lot of work went into reducing turbo lag)

 

Its 8Hp up on a stock ST-TDCI 2.2 (before the weight saving)

 

I timed a load of 0-60s / 30-70s etc (safely off road) but it turns out the speedo is way out , here is some of the times (rounded up) -

 

stock Mondeo TDCI 130 - (mine was a 115, so slower) -

TDCI 2.0 130  0-60 - 10.5secs - 0-100 - 30secs..50-70 in top no data....30-70 10.4 secs 

My 2.0L.......... 0-60  <  8 secs  - 0-100 < 23secs 50-70 in top < 6 secs   30-70 < 8   secs       

ST-TDCI 2.2....0-60 -   8.4secs - 0-100 - 25secs 50-70 in 5th  - 6.5secs 30-70 - 8.3 secs

 

I get about 50MPG on a run and 40 mixed, it drops to 35mpg going "nut5"/ round town etc the 5- speed box is a bit undergeared for the power and a taller top would help the cruising MPG / top speed, but the way it is i never get "caught out" and the car is ready to "go" when i press the accelerator, even at low speeds in top without having to change down  -

 

ST-TDCI 2.2 155 - 50- 70 in 6th - 11.6secs (6th = top )

My 2.0L "162PS" .....50 -70 in 5th - > 6 secs (my top gear is 5th)

 

With the 5-speed box my top speed is a little bit less (130=me vs 136=ST) but that is not important for what i use the car for, even on the strip its not going to get much over 100Mph and i don't drive fast on the road, so the car is "quick" where it needs to be and often the car outperforms "fast" cars at these speeds eg - the 50-70mph acceleration is more important/ useful than the 100-130 (safely off-road/ on unrestricted autobahns of course)  

 

I buy the cheapest fuel i can find (usually from the supermarket) i used injector cleaner then BP ultimate/ redex cetane booster   (1st time ever - did not want to compromise the RR figures with rubbish fuel) for my trip to the dyno when i got my 50mpg,  i was getting 40mpg when the car was heavier/ with the tuning box regular waterpump pump etc/ running cool 



#4 FOCA

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 05:00 AM

Electric waterpump conversion -

 

Electic waterpumps (EW) are used on some race / rally cars and dragsters, and some production cars (eg VW Golf)

 

They have a lot of advantages compared to traditional mechanical pumps / and or underdrive pullys  

 

1 - EW has zero parasitic drag/ weight - a mechanical pump is driven from a belt etc from the engine this adds to the weight / load on the engine, on a big V8 dragster this could be as much as 15Hp (apparently) its probably only a couple of hp on the Mondeo engine pulls / revs better through the band/ pulls better from low revs in a high gear with the EW   

 

2 EW works on demand - when the engine is warming up, pump is not on/ turning so using zero electrical OR mechanical power - + the engine warms up quicker (less engine wear/ better economy) the mechanical pump runs proportionally with the engine, as soon as the engine starts it is circulating cold water through the block (wasting power and taking longer to warm up) afrer a hard hot, run sitting in traffic at tickover the mechanical pump is turning slow, like the engine and relies heavily on the fan to cool the engine - (which often kicks in in these circumstances) - the electric fan works on demand, independant of the engine - it will work "flat out" when the engine is only ticking over, and even be set to run after the engine is switched off

 

3 - so engine warms up quicker and has better control of temprature, maintaining a more constant temprature and not wasting engine power

 

4 drawbacks - the EW is far more expensive and complicated  than a simple, cheap mechanical pump,  it has a limited lifespan but if/when it does fail its a 5 - minite job to swap out

 

I have kept my heater and my thermostat om my setup, i switch the waterpump mnually (i have not set up the electronic controller to control the waterpump yet) once its set up, in cold weather the controller will switch the pump off if the temp drops below a pre- set level - this is great for performance, economy and engine wear, but bad for the poor, freezing driver/ passengers because the heater stops working when the electric waterpump switches off - its something im working on - i might fit a second pump just for the heater or a low speed "trickle" for the single/ main pump

 

5 Installation on the Mondeo -

 

Deceptively simple  -

 

The mechanical pump is removed, and replaced with the EW - exept you can't remove the mechanical pump as it supports the power steering pump and feeds the waterjacket on the block, so the impeller (insides) of the old pump is removed and the hole sealed (i used chemical metal) where the drive shaft (from the powerb steering) came in  the - inside of the pomp is a "bad shape" for flow and the top of the pump traps air (airlock) both things fixed with re-profiling the inside of the pump with chemical metal (took over a week to do this-mainly  waiting for it to set/ filing/ sanding it till it was "right")

 

The manufacturers recommended the pump should be set low and within  a certain angle, i had to re- route the feed back from the heater, and removed the pre heater electric element and shortened/ straightened the pipes (mostly replacing them with silicone)

 

I got brass connectors (instead of plastic or steel) - i did not know they would react with the coolant - i swapped the brass connectors for alloy, but the ones i got were too short and split my hoses when the jubillee clips were tightened up - so i reverted back to the brass connectors, and switched the organic for non-organic (highly toxic, needs changing every 2 years but better thermal conductivity for a given concentration / lower frezing point/ higher boiling point)

 

The coolant concentration put the freezing point at - 40 degrees and the boiling point at 108 degrees (centigrade) so i ran it unpressurized (pressurizing the system raises the boiling point but puts the system under more pressure) and fitted a catchtank and condenser for any overflow (when i forget to switch the "always temporary" manual switch on!)

 

 6 Would i recommend it?

 

No. forget it, unless you are building a track day car or have a illogical compulsion to have every possible modification to your car or just love "tinkering" with things/ like a challenge  its not worth the hassle/ expense on a road car in my opinion :)

 

In real terms the difference it makes is not as much as other things like remaps/ uprated exhausts etc and the money would be better spent elsewhere

 

I had to try it though! 

 

 - this -

waterpump - pas.jpg  

 

to this -

 

dav_ewp-80-combo-160.jpg  

 

exiting - isnt it 

 

Edit - the controllers i have have multiple readouts/ gauges of water temp/ oil temp/ volts but they are designed to switch fans off/ on - but thats all they do (off or on) they can be used to control the waterpump but the dedicated water pump controllers designed for the purpose work better - with variable speed/ "smart"control and a second channel for a fan built in - i have put one on my ever growing "want" list

 

Rewired the temp/volt gauges/ fan controllers so they can be powered down (no battery drain) but still work without "fiddling" with them (don't need to be set up again after a power down and reset to read volts and water temp automatically) - had to switch the gauges round to do this

 

Update :-  Aug 2013 - fitted dedicated electronic fan controller (as described above) and lightweight (1.5kgs) racing fan (yet to be to connected) - engine warms up quicker and car feels faster

 

Had to make/modify an adaptor to connect the waterpump temp sensor to the heater line - its electrically seperate from the gauge sensor - i kept the manual "waterpump" switch so i can start the engine and run it for a few minites from cold before powering up the pump/ controller so less load on the battery,and engine warms up a little pit quicker - need to get this automated though, with a timer, or a thermostat etc or i could simply connect it direct to the ignition (simpler but draws current before the engine is started and it will not warm up so quickly - but at least i can't forget to switch it on!)                      



#5 FOCA

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 09:51 AM

AC delete

 

(+ Comments on various parasitic losses/ AC delete & electric waterpump conversion  VS underdrive pullys/  lightened flywheel)

 

My aircon never seemed to work very well and i never really used it much (even in our 2 to 3 months of "summer") to save fuel

 

When i started seriously lightening the car, i removed the AC "radiator" (and other pipework) even though it only weighed 4 kilos, i could feel the difference in the steering/ turn in

 

i eventually also removed the  AC pump/ pulley and fitted a shorter auxiiary belt ,(the belt also feeds the alternator) the pump weighed a whopping 7kilos and the (heavy) pulley constantly turned when the engine was running (even when the AC was off)

 

the weight of the AC pump pulley removed is like taking that much off the flywheel (like a lightened flywheel) there is less weight and drag on the crank/ driveline so the engine should rev through the band quicker  

 

Often, dragsters/ performance cars are fitted with smaller diameter "underdrive pulleys" so the ancillaries run at lower revs, this is known to increase power/ torque to the wheels but can cause problems as the alternator, waterpump are driven at lower revs 

 

With the AC removed, and the electric waterpump conversion, it is better than an underdrive pully, as the load is reduced, (by removing the mechanical pump and AC pump/ pulley) but the alternator and power steering pump are run at regular speed

 

There is also the advantage of removing 11kgs (AC system) and the fact the AC cannot fail (because its not there!) 

 

So the combination of the AC pully and mechanical waterpump being removed boosts power to the wheels a little and helps the engine rev faster through the band (like having a lightweight flywheel)

 

+ it increases the efficiency so the car is quicker + more economical (i always like that!)

 

There is still part of the AC system in the heater (got to remove it someday! - wonder how heavy it is?)

 

tddi pully + belts.jpg

 

^ Standard aux/ serpentine belt routing ^

 

tddi pully + belts- AC delete- shorter belt diagram .jpg

 

^ Aux/ serpentine belt routing, shortened  with AC delete ^

 

IMG_8890- AC delete 200 x 250.JPG

 

Aparently in 1st gear each kilo off the flywheel (the AC flywheel is the wquivelant of the crank flywheel) is like 100kgs off the car  - AC pulley/ flywheel weighs 1.2kgs (always turning with engine, even when AC is off)   



#6 DanGersFord

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 05:43 PM

You know your stuff lol

#7 FOCA

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 09:07 PM

You know your stuff lol

Thank you :)



#8 DanGersFord

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 09:16 PM

I wish I could get more into my cars but I realy havent got much of a clue when it comes to performance mods etc (I was the first person in my immediate family that learned to drive so ive only just realy started getting into my cars this last few years). Thats part of the reason I joined the forum. Im considering doing a part time mechanics course just for myself not realy working towards anything :)

#9 FOCA

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Posted 09 April 2013 - 07:07 AM

Turbo/ boost control

 

My Mondeo, and its boost control system/s -

 

I run a stand - alone adjustable electronic digital 400mhz microprossesor controlled 2 stage boost controller with anti-lag programme and 100psi solenoid, dump valve/ anti lag system, extended hose, fail safe/ defeat, overboost pressure relief valve etc)

 

stage 1 - long pipe to actuator

 

The boost control systems are set up so that if the electronic boost controller fails or gets switched off the system still works as an extended pipe with the solenoid as a restrictor

 

Anti lag system / "dump valve"-

 

When the throttle is lifted off (either changing gear or over-run) a valve "dumps" the air (pressure) out of the actuator, this means the wastegate always closes (or closes quicker) in these conditions, so the turbo has more of a chance to spool up/ produce boost sooner when the throttle/ power is put "back on" 

The long actuator hose would tend to slow down the air escaping from the actuator without this  

this device works independant of the boost controller/ works in all modes ("stage"1, 2, and 3) 

 

stage 2 + 3 - electronic boost controller

 

When the boost controller is activated, it comes off the "long actuator hose" ("stage 1") onto the 1st stage of the electronic controller (stage2) usually set (adjustable in the "cockpit") on a constant 20psi with 22psi overboost,  the 2nd stage  of the controller (stage 3) is normally set at a constant/ continuous 22psi and 24psi overboost

 

These (two) settings were tried on the recent dyno run, with different (but similar) results, the beauty of the system is it can be easily changed (in seconds) to acommodate upgrades to turbo, intercooler etc (when i may run higher boost pressures/ PSIs)

 

The electronic boost controller - 

 

it is a two-stage digital microprossesor controlled adjustable boost controller with a 100PSI solenoid,it is "stand alone" (works completely independantly of the engines CPU etc) and is integrated into the other boost control systems/ and (as explained above) is fail: safe, its sensor constantly  monitors the pressure in the inlet manifold at 400Mhz (cycles 400 million times a second), the boost controllers "brain"/ CPU interprets that and controls the soleniod that controls the actuator, the actutor is rated to 100PSI but i have never used it this high! - when i got it i did not know how much boost i would be running (many diesel dragsters run 100+ psi ) the boost controller has an anti lag programme and fast target lock

 

It works very well and the turbo kicks in at low revs and holds its boost, it was designed as a "budget" alternative to very expensive racing systems and for drift racing, and would normally be used on petrol RX7s, Nissan GTRs etc, it only works on fixed- vane turbos with wastegates

 

Overboost "dump" valve/ safety pressure relief valve -

 

As well as the other boost control "stuff" there is a seperate, adjustable overboost dump valve, if any of the other boost control systems were to fail/ be turned up too much, the relief valve would "dump" air from the manifold, protecting the engine from too much boost, i am going to re-locate it so it "hisses" audible to the driver, to tell me the boost has gone way too high - eg, if the max Psi i expect is 24psi, i can set this at 30 (it is completely seperate and works independant of the other boost control system's and works in all "modes" ) i may resite the pick-up-point to prevent "compressor stalling" and "boost spiking"                   

  

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Brief description of how a turbo, wastegate and actuator works  -

 

The energy from the exhaust manifold is directed towards the turbine ("hot side"/ "exhaust side") which spins (like a windmill) this is connected via a shaft to the compressor ("cold side"/"inlet side") that blows air (like a fan) into the inlet  more air is forced into the engine which means more oxegen so the engine produces more power

 

Some form of boost control is nessesary otherwise the turbo can spin faster and faster (pulling itself apart in the process) and/ or the boost pressure gets higher and higher untill a hose gets pulled off or engine damage/ pinking/ pre ignition occurs or something breaks/ overheats

On a fixed vane turbo a wastegate and punmatic actuator is simple and reliable (+ has no electric/ electronic parts)

a short thin hose connects the outlet of the turbine with the sealed chamber Inside the actuator - a spring holds back a diaphram, as the pressure/ boost rises from the turbine it pushes against the diaphram, untill it reaches a set PSI/ pressure, (lets say 18PSI) when it overcomes the spring which then pushes a rod that opens the wastegate, when the wastegate opens it diverts exhaust gasses away from the turbine this makes the turbine slow down - this makes the compressor slow down too which reduces the boost, the boost drops untill the pressure inside the actuator goes down which then allows the diahrpam to move back (pushed by the spring) so the rod closes the wastegate, the cycle starts again so the boost is maintained at the desired level

 

More boost -

The actuator can be replaced with a stronger one (you can get 15, 18, 20, 22PSI ones etc) or you can get actuators that can be rebuilt with different strengths of springs (stronger spring = more PSI = more boost)

 

Extended hose, boost bottle,

A longer hose or a sealed container (boost bottle) is used between the turbine outlet and the actuator, this allows the boost to rise for a bit longer before the pressure rises in the actuator, pushing the diaphram and opening the wastegate this can help the turbo spool up quicker, reducing lag and boosting bottom end power/ throttle response, the longer the hose/ larger the size/ volume of the boost bottle, the longer it is before the wastegate opens, this an give an "overboost"

 

bleed valve,

A restriction is placed between the turbine outlet and actuator, normally an adjustable "needle valve" that only allows a little air through, works in a similar way to extended hose/ boost bottle but more extreme and can produce higher peak PSIs for longer, can be tricky to get accurate control of boost, may also "bleed" air to atmospheric (outside hose)

 

Can be pre set or can have a "knob" you can turn up/ down inside the car  

 

 

 

ball and spring boost controller

Works similar to bleed valve, exept there is a small ball-bearing held back by a spring and threaded bolt (with a pre- set adjuster or adjustable dial) the pressure from the compressor outlet is held back by the ball bearing, untill the PSI is high enough to overcome the spring, thus the ajuster can be set to a higher PSI than the cars' original actuator is set at

 

None of these modifications are as effective as an - 

Electronic boost controller

 

An electronic "box" (analog or , these days, digital), often with an adjustable boost dial,  moniters the boost pressure (usually at/ near the inlet manifold) this controls a solenoid (which opens and closes to adjust the boost) fitted between the turbine outlet and actuator,  (this is the "tuning"/"aftermarket" type for fixed vane turbos, normally petrol, but works on diesel engines with fixed vanes too)



#10 FOCA

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 12:06 PM


 

Transmission -


 

SMF conversion Carbon/ Kevlar uprated clutch , sprung plate, uprated HD plate, short shifter


 

Short shifter -


 

I bought an aftermarket short- shifter, it was too short for me so i modified the existing gearstick, by cutting the top of the threads down (i left a decent bit of thread on it) i also drilled into the thread on the stock gearknob so it sat lower on the stick, this dropped/ shortened it about 20/ 30mm which felt "perfect" (not too long, not too short) i had to cut down the "lift up reverse" bit too, i removed the "lift up reverse" gate as well (the car will not go into reverse from any of the forward gears at speed anyway - the syncromesh in reverse prevents this) i kept the "lift up reverse" thingy on the gearstick, still sprung- loaded - for show


 

i repositioned the cable so it was as high on the stick as possible without fouling the trim, this placed the stick further forward, i adjusted it on the gearbox to bring it back again


 

Altogether this made the stock gearstick 30mm lower and a shorter fore/ aft movement, (approx 100mm/ 4" from 3rd to 4th) i know this does not sound that "extreme" but if it was shorter it would not feel "right" especially as i can only shorten the fore/ aft (/ back forward) and not the side to side, this is an old 5- speed Mondeo, and it originally had a long "van" like stick, and travel, the gearstick mods make it more "ST" "sportscar " like


 

The shorter throw makes the gear changes faster, the solid flywheel and carbon clutch is a lot more "direct" and less liable to "miss" a gear during a fast change, the responsive engine/ anti- lag setup helps too, so less time is lost changing gear with everything working together and the setup reduces 0-60/ 1/4 mile times etc


 

SMF conversion -


 

I bought the car when it was 2/ 3 year old and i was its 3rd owner (it was a reps car1st- 80k) - so i dont know if it had the original DMF, when it was approacking 100k the DMF started playing up, i was told the extra bottom end torque hastened the demise of the DMF (with the tuning box and the unrestricted lower gears/ torque restrictor defeat) neverthless i managed to nurse the "knaked" DMF (that got gradually worse and worse) along for about another year


 

I then had to change it, i considered replacing it with a stock ("Ford"- probably made by LUK) DMF, clutch etc, but even with my trade discount it would be expensive, and only as good as the one that was removed, which was inevitably going to fail again (especially with the extra torque & power)


 

I considered a gear-driven planetery Sachs DMF,better than the stock LUK rubbish but even more expensive,


 

I learnt that the engines are tuned to reduce the torque at low revs/ and in some cars in the lower gears, to protect the "soft" DMF,


 

I wanted a flywheel/ clutch that could handle all the (derestricted) torque the engine could throw at it


 

I got a balanced solid fluwheel, carbon fiber/ kevlar clutch with sprung plate, 30% stronger clamping force with Upgraded Heavy-duty backplate -


 

The Solid flywheel (SMF/ Single mass flywheel ) is simply a solid, single balanced disc with no (seperate) moving parts to wear/ break up, it can handle a lot of torque with no problem the one i got was made for a transit


 

I had read all the "horror stories" online about SMFs, but most of these seem to be from those who have not actually fitted one, i can tell you an SMF is a LOT smoother than a worn - out DMF, dmfs are nisc when they are new, not so good when they wear - the genuine SMF stories about exessive vibration/ broken cranks/ clutches are probably from poorly fitted or mismatched SMFs


 

The chap that sold me the kit, sells DMFs and SMFs, and recommended the SMF/ solid flywheel for me/ my needs


 

The ohter thing that swayed me was the fact the Streetperformance MK3 2.2 used an SMF


 

As well as the SMF, i got a carbon fiber & kevlar clutch, Kevlar is 6 times stronger than steel, pound for pound, but expensive, these are normally fitted as upgrades to EVOs Impretzas etc, the one i got is good for 400Bhp, apparently (handy if i manage to coax i bit more power out of my 2.0L diesel!)


 

The backplate is stronger and the clamping force 30% stronger so its less liable to slip, the pedal is a bit heavier but ok, it is precise compared to the stock setup (which was "sloppy")


 

The clutch has a "cush drive" "sprung plate" built into it, this replaces the "give" that the DMF had, important on an SMF conversion


 

I fitted the SMF/ upgraded clutch a couple of years ago, its only then that i felt confident to tune the car seriously, it has worked perfectly, it is smooth and nice to drive and has never "missed a beat"

 

short shifter 544.jpg

 

Carbon fiber and kevlar clutch.jpg

 

 


 

,



#11 FOCA

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Posted 13 April 2013 - 08:03 AM

Weight saving / lightening -

 

FOCA Mondeo is 150kgs lighter (the weight of 2 avarage people) - payload increased to 740kgs,(almost 3/4 of a tonne) for comparison a BMW M3 has a 400kgs payload.  An Escort van has a payload of 452-715kgs (the lowest/ highest i could find) Partner van - 625-750kgs - my estate is (approx) 80kgs lighter than stock MK3 saloon/ hatch (inc ST220/ ST-TDCI)    

 

I would say that the weight saving / lightening is the most significant/ important modification in the car, that and the tuning box/ remap/ bluefin Though the weight saving consists of lightening/ removing a lot of different components, it probably makes the biggest difference and these 2 things more than everything else put together

 

Advantages -

 

1 Better acceleration

 

2 Better Braking

 

3 Better fuel economy

 

4 increased payload  

 

5 better traction/ handling (if done right)

 

6 Less stress/ wear on tyres/ suspension/ transmission/ brakes

 

Ive managed to remove a massive 150+kgs from my Mondeo this is a mixture of fitting lightened components and removing un-nessesary weight, and not adding weight  

 

Balance for traction/ handling -

 

The car handles vey well and is nicely balanced, the lightening is most noticable when braking, but accelerating/ cornering too  

 

A lot of effort has gone into taking the weight off the extreme rear of the car behind the rear wheels, the rear wheels can act as a fulcrum (pivot/ see-saw) any weight on here can reduce the weight on the front (driven in fwd) wheels

 

the weight/ mass has been concentrated in the middle of the car (like a mid- engined car) to help the car handle better/ turn faster, some weight (that could have been removed) was left on around the engine area to help traction, so the mass is concentrated in line with/ just behind  the front wheels, some effort was made to reduce mass in front of the front wheels to help turn in (but at the expense of traction)

 

I did not fit a carbon - fiber bonnet, or change the front crash bar/ cross member for an Alloy one, or replace the lead- acid battery for a NI-CAD (optional on some 911s- expensive but weighs 1kgs- i don't know if it would even start the car or if the smart charge system would cope with it)

 

Battery - the stock battery weighs 19kgs, i fitted 1st a 17kg one now a 12.4kg one, ive re-fitted the bottom tray part of the battery box and insulated the battery - its gone through the winter no problem (most of the lights are leds, there is less electrical stuff and i have a small (1kg) solar panel fitted though)

 

The Ac system was 11kgs and the radiator fans 4.7kgs (turns out i ran the car for 3 years with a bad connection and these were not working anyway )  

 

Battery............ - 6.5kgs

Ac .................. - 11kgs

Radiator fans.. - 4.7kgs

 

I plan to fit a lightweight radiator fan in-beteen the radiator and intercooler

 

the intercooler is the only part of the car heavier than stock = + 2.5kgs

 

Ive no plans to lighten the front much more so as not to reduce traction but if i get a limited- slip diff/ ATB i may be tempted

 

Im not going to list every single thing lightened / removed (there must be a lot) but certain key things - 

 

Any rotating parts (the Ac pully/ pump and the waterpump impeller - far more significant that their "static" weight)

 

The wheels/ tyres - reducing the weight of the wheels reduces overall weight,  unsprung mass, and rotating mass that has to be accelerated and de-celerated - a bigger, wider tyre can add mechanical and aerodynamic drag - this  can have a significant effect and the MK3 Mondeo has 2 sets of official MPG figures depending on the wheels/ tyres fitted

 

Wider tyres can improve traction/ acceleration off the line and in lower gears, (and give better grip in heavy braking) but can slow the car down in other conditions (so its a balance) very powerful cars may need wide tyres but less powerful ones probably don't

 

16" Ford wheels (steel or early Mondeo alloys) and  205/55/16 tyres = 17.4kgs - x 4 = 69.6kgs

 

18" Mondeo ST-TDCI wheels/ tyres .......................................................22kgs.... - x4 = 88Kgs

 

Some other Ford wheels/ tyres (including 17" i weighed)........................24kgs     - x4 = 96kgs

 

these are all 5-stud

 

So a weight saving of 18.4kgs or 26.4kgs, but this is weight that has to be "spun up" and is "unsprung mass" so is more significant than static weight (+ the drag of wider wheels)  

 

Spare tyre - an easy one to remove, weighs 17.4kgs or about 20kgs with jack/ brace its at the back of the car mostly behind the back wheels so removing it improves traction (and a noticable difference in handling) can be replaced with tyre weld/ pump  

 

So 4 lighter wheels and removing a (full size) spare tyre alone can save 40- 45 kgs (a significant amount)

 

Lighter, silenced straight- through exhaust with decat, balanced for traction/ handling -

 

The back-box (7kgs) is removed and replaced with a straight pipe (1kg) the (straight through) middle silencer was left in place (estimated approx 10kgs) to shift the weight off the back into the miggle of the car, the decat is 3.5kgs lighter than the cat, making a total weight saving of 9.5kgs - this is about weight saving/ distribution- the exhaust will be described in more detail

 

Rear of car -

 

spare wheel etc -20kgs

back box - 6kgs

boot cover/ rear shelf 4kgs

spare wheel cover 3.2kgs

rubber boot floor 6kgs

wiper + motor 1.5kgs

 

total 40.7kgs (with carpet still in place)  

 

Not adding any extra wieght -

 

Apart from a slightly heavier intercooler (2.5kgs) no significant extra weight has been added, no point in "sweating blood" to bring the weight down then "throwing away" the advantage by adding a subwoofer to rouin the traction/ handling -  the stock Cd6000 stereo was left in with its 4 speakers, (each speaker is only 1kgs)

 

I was planning bigger (and heavier ) front discs/ calipers (which would have added weight) but with removing 150kgs the stock brakes worked a lot better (they are the same as the 150mph ST-220, after all - all mk3s have the same discs)

 

Some of the aftermarket intercoolers are very big/ must be heavy, no point in adding extra wieght to hide the top half behind the bumper and increase internal volume/ turbo lag

 

The stock intercooler only weighs 2kgs - i chose a "lightweight" drag racing one - 4.5kgs, most other "performance" ones are +8 - 10kgs

 

The exhaust is 2-14" - if i go for a larger diameter in the furure it may add weight but if i remove the middle silencer it may offset this  

 

Future plans -

 

Im thinking about perspex glass on the back/ sides, (approx 20kgs saving) the stock front seats are heavy, i could fit lightweight racing ones, but may have to do something clever for the airbags, i could fit team dynamics pro wheels (save 1.2kgs per wheel) and a carbon- fiber bonnet , i would want to get the LSD/ ATB 1st for that

 

I could save about another 50kgs with these, taking it from -150 to -200kgs   



#12 FOCA

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Posted 14 April 2013 - 04:45 PM

Total EGR delete And total - loss breather system

 

Total EGR delete -

 

The EGR is effectively blanked at both ends, the inlet and exhaust are seperated, keeping the exhaust hot and the inlet cool  the inlet gas flow is improved by smoothing and shortening the boost hoses (that formed part of the EGR system)

 

The engine pulls better at low revs, with less flat spots, on top of this the inlet manifold stays clean

 

Total loss breather system -

 

The crankcase breathes through a vent in the cylinder head, this is vented into the inlet between the airbox and turbo compressor

 

it is injected here so the engine has to regurgitate the oily gas/ spray from the breather, (for emmisions reasons) it tends to eventually coat the turbo hoses and especally the inside of the intercooler (where it tends to condense when it hits the cool walls ) and all the way to the inlet manifold where it mixes with the carbon from the EGR valve

 

It probably is not too bad on a new engine but as an engine gets worn it can produce a fair bit of "muck" over time that can choke / reduce the efficiency of the intercooler as the inside surfaces are coated with oil, insulating the air

 

 The breather gets blocked on the inlet side and vented to the atmosphere on the engine/ block/ head side, via a catchtank filter or long pipe

 

On mine there is a long pipe away from the the engine bay to a kind of "exhaust" out the side

 

With the breather diverted the intercooler stays clean, and all the air going to the inlet manifold, only if the turbo seals leak will the inlet get dirty, with the EGR blanked as well

 

Apart from the oil mist/ droplets, there is warm air from the crankcase, which can reduce power

 

The total power boost with the EGR delete and breather diverted is quite small, but the engine runs smoother with less flat spots, and the (inside of the)  inlet, boost hoses, intercooler and inlet manifold stay clean



#13 FOCA

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 01:48 PM

Dyno results -

Chart 1 - Power + torque - My modified car on Dastec dyno / superchips ;before; (stock) / superchips bluefin;after

IMG_0157- dyno results crop 2-stealth power + torque 600 .JPG

Chart 2 - Power only (torque lines;removed for clarity) -

IMG_0157- dyno results crop 2- power-stealth -600.JPG


Chart 2 shows the printout of my cars power curves ;from dastek, with the Superchips Bluefin before/ after, superimposed in pen -

in acsending order (starting with lowest peak power 1st)

Dark blue line - 113/127Hp Stock car, (supposedly 113hp);peaks out at 127Hp measured on superchips dyno,;this is a 113Hp (115PS) 2.0 TDDI, so this is ;"healthy"; the 115PS/113hp (it is supposed to be) was to keep it in a EU/ German tax bracket so was "political"; power rises steeply from 1500rpm, then &quot;levels out&quot; above 2600, fairly flat upto 4000 rpm, peak power is at 3360, in practice, when i got my car it was "gutless"  below 2k and no point in revving it past 3.5k, (though it did rev higher) compared to how it is now, it was very, very slow.

Black line -;147Hp - Superchips Bluefin remap - Measured on the Superchips dyno, otherwise stock car - the power follows the stock line from tickover to just over 2500 with no significant extra power over stock under these revs, above 2500 the Bluefin power continues to rise (compared to stock that "levveled off" untill 2800 where it levvels off untill about 3200 - so it is almost "flat" (not a rising power characteristrict/ almost a "flat spot" between 2800 and 3100 - above 3100 it rises nicely 'till its peak at 3360rpm, where it makes 147Hp, above this it falls rapidly (more than stock) by 4k its dropped a little over 10Hp (so no point in revving it over 3360)

Red/ light blue line - 160.1Hp/ 162PS my car on Dastec dyno - power pulls strongly almost from tickover and can take full throttle from 1k, (not shown on graph) power comes in sooner and pulls stronger throughout the rev range, power rises faster and by 1500 there is almost 12Hp more than stock/ Bluefin, from tickover to 2600 the power rises sharplly, its still rising (not as steeply) between 2600- 2634, where it makes 160.1Hp (a massive gain over stock and/or Bluefin alone) the power corve is smooth with no "flat spots"/ "glitches" and starts earlier/ extends later, (even at 4k it only drops 4Hp) - a "perfect"  curve (i want to extend the rising power characteristrict to higher revs in the future, if possible - /dyno run;was done in 4th, it revs higher in 2nd)

The light blue line was at 22PSI turbo boost, the red line was at 24PSI, i lost a little power at the higher PSI, and the power curve was slightly different (rising earlier/ dropping off faster) - this is info i can use to get more power in the future



Chart 3 - Torque only (power lines removed for clarity)


IMG_0157- dyno results crop 2-stealth - torque - 600 .JPG

 

Dark Blue line - stock torque measured on Superchips dyno

 

Black line - Superchips Bluefin on an otherwise stock car

 

Red & light blue lines - my cars torque on Dastec dyno at 22/24PSI boost pressure

 

Torque Summary - torque is over 10ft-lbs more than stock or Blufin alone between 1600-2400, the peak torque (271.9 ft-lbs/ 368Nm), is almost the same (just a bit more -2.9 ft-lbs) as the bluefin alone,( 269ft-lbs/ 366Nm) but the torque curve starts earlier and extends higher up the rev range, fatter and flatter (not so "peaky")  this is a perfect example why the shape of the curve is so important compares to the "on paper" figures - at peak power (3634rpm) the torque is a massive  20+ft- lbs more than the Bluefin alone, even though the peak figures are the same

 

At 3634rpm  its almost 40ft-lbs more than stock (measured on the Superchips dyno) and the 272ft-lbs is a massive boost over Fords' claimed 209ft-lbs

 

The lightened car, with the (massively) increased and wider power and torque curves coupled to the stock (5-speed ) gear ratios give the car "insane" top-gear acceleration, with the 50-70mph in top, quicker than most cars on the road, including sports cars/ supercars etc   

 

Attached File  Superchips Bluefin Mondeo TDDI power & torque curves graphs.pdf   41.44KB   36 downloads

 

^^ original data - Superchips / Bluefin power & torque curves that were transposed onto the Dastec printout - note it has a different scale / aspect ratio and the torque is in Nm (366Nm = 269ft -lbs )

 

    
 



#14 Boydo15

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 01:56 PM

That's some build. Credit to you. Any pics of the car in full?

#15 FOCA

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 03:29 PM

Thanks! - There is a reason there are no pictures of the whole car - there is nothing to see! the car looks very standard/ boring - its a "sleeper" - from the outside it looks just (virtually) like a completely standard Mondeo - you would need an eye for detail to tell the difference - it even has stock wheels - inside the boost gauge sits in the centre console cup holder, and it looks like a compass or "regular/ avarage" little mod, the water/ oil temp controllers/ voltmeter are hidden in the ashtray, under the flap  

 

(i was influenced by the car in the movie "Taxi" - you know the one :lol:  )  

 

Ive de-tangoed the indicators on the front/ repeaters (replaced the orange with chrome or white) de-badged the rear and thats just about it with the cosmetic mods.

 

Im considering a big brake kit (so i might need big wheels)  and a large-diameter side exit exhaust , i would ditch the "sleeper" look then and possibly go with a carbon bonnet, racing seats and roll cage etc, - might be worth posting some pictures then - im still not bored with the "sleeper" concept yet,  :)      



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