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Lenny

Guide: Fitting Ford Projector Puddle Lights Mk2 & Mk2.5 Focus 05-12 Front Doors

64 posts in this topic

Thanks Jonny,

Well worth taking the time to do this mod mate,

I purchased the stainless steel scuff plates back in 2010 from a seller on eBay but I can't remember the shop, not sure if they done a 3 door version but I'll have a quick search and PM you with my findings.

Cheers buddy! yeah ive noticed the sills are starting to get scuffed up by my work boots.

fantastic work mate that mod looks class a real head turner!

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Cheers buddy! yeah ive noticed the sills are starting to get scuffed up by my work boots.

fantastic work mate that mod looks class a real head turner!

Thanks very much Jonny,

I've just sent you a PM with links to some nice sets of 3 Door scuff plates.

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Lenny, Edited your photo for you just so's it does the job justice :d

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Lenny, Edited your photo for you just so's it does the job justice :d

Thanks very much Clive mate,

It badly needed that edit made a good difference to keeping it dark.

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Hey Lenny the night shots are great , i bet they look really cool at night , you could do with one in the rear screen ready to swtich on if a Vau%&$£ pulls up behind you , haha shine it on their bonnet lol

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Hey Lenny the night shots are great , i bet they look really cool at night , you could do with one in the rear screen ready to swtich on if a Vau%&$£ pulls up behind you , haha shine it on their bonnet lol

lol thanks mate,

We don't have many vauxhalls over here only privately imported models,

Vauxhall disguise themselves as OPEL over here and even the cops dont drive them,

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i thought you lived in Ireland not timbuctoo LOL

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i thought you lived in Ireland not timbuctoo LOL

Suppose Ireland has been influenced enough by the uk over the centureys without enduring Vauxhall aswell lol

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Suppose Ireland has been influenced enough by the uk over the centureys without enduring Vauxhall aswell lol

Oh lenny below the belt ye legend ...I can even check out my jimmi choos on ur puddle lights now woohoo

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Lenny i had a good long read through this guide and i got a question, i don't really want to take out the galvanized metal cover nor remove the glass so my question is, after removing the door card is it not possible to remove the speaker and run the wires into the grommet through the doors and then back to the door card beside the speaker?

I think i will attempt this by removing the door rubber grommet for the factory loom and start a feed from inside the car going towards the door through the grommet and down towards the speaker.

You've done a cracking job doing it like a pro and made it look so damn professional

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Lenny i had a good long read through this guide and i got a question, i don't really want to take out the galvanized metal cover nor remove the glass so my question is, after removing the door card is it not possible to remove the speaker and run the wires into the grommet through the doors and then back to the door card beside the speaker?

I think i will attempt this by removing the door rubber grommet for the factory loom and start a feed from inside the car going towards the door through the grommet and down towards the speaker.

You've done a cracking job doing it like a pro and made it look so damn professional

Thanks very much Kurt, took a lot of time to make this guide and it still needs more text in places,

You could run the cable in to the car by only removing the speaker but,

The window going up and down could catch the cable if its not secured out of the way,

And to remove the speaker you must drill out the rivets,

I've thought of every option not removing the window as I didn't want to neither but had to in the end,

I too tried to remove the factory rubber hose on both sides and fish the cable through both grommets from inside the car,

But the top grommet exiting from the car is not hollow inside.

It is a block plug&socket there's no way through it mate unless you manage to unplug both sides and drill out the block to allow the extra cable pass through,

My only option was to use the door side and exit in the middle to the side grommet,

Because the top of the hose is a square plug on the inside with block terminals there's no way through it.

To prevent drilling rivets I'd take my time and lift out the glass mate, its much easier than it looks.

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Yeah that makes alot of sense dude the guide is very good and i understood it pretty well easily one of the best explained guides well done mate i will give this a shot in the near future and update you about my epic fail lol.

Great mod dude i love the ford logo it looks awesome on the ground with both doors open BANG TIDY

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Yeah that makes alot of sense dude the guide is very good and i understood it pretty well easily one of the best explained guides well done mate i will give this a shot in the near future and update you about my epic fail lol.

Great mod dude i love the ford logo it looks awesome on the ground with both doors open BANG TIDY

Thanks mate,

Best of luck and I hope you can do it your way with minimum hassle,

The aim is not to fail, it is to find the easiest way possible.

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Lights received today and well... very much impressed with the quality of the projected image. I was sort of expecting a blurred out ford logo however it's rather good! at close range and long range!

I hope to get this job done sunday, found so many ways of doing it already anyways it was only a test run today. I basically attached the cable to the footwell bulbs and tested it

f2z4.jpg

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Lights received today and well... very much impressed with the quality of the projected image. I was sort of expecting a blurred out ford logo however it's rather good! at close range and long range!

I hope to get this job done sunday, found so many ways of doing it already anyways it was only a test run today. I basically attached the cable to the footwell bulbs and tested it

Look forward to the results on Sunday kurt, the 4th generation onwards are fantastic light and image quality for there small size, if you get time feel free to add to the guide if you find one of the many ways you found is easier than the way I've fitted mine mate will better help others.
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Look forward to the results on Sunday kurt, the 4th generation onwards are fantastic light and image quality for there small size, if you get time feel free to add to the guide if you find one of the many ways you found is easier than the way I've fitted mine mate will better help others.

I will add some pics indeed. !Removed! down all day today and tomorrow, might put the mod off till next weekend

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The rain was !Removed! down today but after it stopped for a bit i got some wiring done. working on several mods so i took apart things that aren't needed for this mod on it's own. I was able to get all wiring in, both door projector lamps fitted and wiring feed into the car as described by lenny.

Installed some other wires going to the back for rear footwell lights.

During this mod going about it with my method i purchased this pop rivet tool with 4 sizes of rivets for http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310723083163?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I drilled out the pop rivets for the speaker holes and gained perfect access to the grommet, from there on i did everything else the same as lenny's guide.

http://imageshack.com/a/img42/5750/o5l4.jpg

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(Some of the parts removed in this photo is for another mod)

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f3j1.jpg

This photo is from inside of the door from the speaker opening. easy enough to fit your hand in and feed the wires through

However i came across a slight problem when it came to fitting back the speakers, although the tool worked fine, the speakers have insulation between the back and the door panel, this meant the pop rivets provided with the tool were short and not great for fixing.

Halford were closed and couldn't get my hands on longer pop rivets, at current my speakers are temporary fixed with cable ties until i receive these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200835023179?var=500113378187&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Once i get the longer pop rivets, 10 min job to permanently fix the speakers

Other than that it's smooth sailing and very fast, not more than 30 mins to take off the door card drill out the speakers pop rivets and feed the cable through the grommet.

This is an easy alternative to removing the windows. If you choose to remove the window you'll save £6

This is what it looks like when fitting new pop rivets (The ones provided did fit with force and it would be alright if some of the insulation got chopped off. I don't want to do that it could cause the speakers to rattle till then i will wait for longer pop rivets)

xmm5.jpg

slzk.jpg

Next week i will connect all wires completely including rear footwell lights and automatic wipers other than that all wires installed not a bad day

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Nice job done today Kurt,

Hardest part is over now that the cables are in,

If I was you I'd hoover the inside of the door to remove the filings from the old rivets prior to refitting speakers permanently encase they create noise.

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I temp wired it in to see how it looks in the dark (Camera flash is on) it look GREAT!!

esxl.jpg very happy with it.

Lenny i'm glad you brought that up, inside of the door was oily... had alot of cream coloured oily thick residue, i don't know what to make of it to be honest... i will hoover it out like ya suggested and thank you for this awesome guide!

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I temp wired it in to see how it looks in the dark (Camera flash is on) it look GREAT!!

very happy with it.

Lenny i'm glad you brought that up, inside of the door was oily... had alot of cream coloured oily thick residue, i don't know what to make of it to be honest... i will hoover it out like ya suggested and thank you for this awesome guide!

No problem Kurt, I'm glad you found it easy to follow and usfull makes it worth my while creating when people find it easy to follow,

I had the creamy substance in the bottom of my doors too mate,

Seems like a Vaseline style jelly ford use to prevent water resting in the door cavity which certainly does its job,

But I run a cotton bud along the line of the bottom to create a channel in the oily substance so now its like a half pipe shape and water will run straight out the drain holes easier.

Also since your in the process of running cables,

Why don't you purchase a 3smd led strip,

Remove the bird bath panel from the rear of the centre console,

Line up the 3 led strip, drill 3 holes in line to allow the light pass through illuminating the bird bath pocket,

And wire it to your interior light feed to come on along with your night driving lights.

See my guide on front&rear foot well lighting for images and info on this thread here:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/28100-guide-to-fitting-smd-leds-to-cup-holder/page-2

i fitted a 3 SMD strip to the ''bird bath'' pocket in the rear of the centre console by lining the strip in the centre and drilling three 4.5mm holes for the led's to beam through then stuck the strip to the panel with some electrical PVC tape, then spliced it in to the cup holder lights that i also fitted following prees guide in this thread,

very happy with the results and a nice glow in the rear now as well as the front matches in nicely, and these are all run from the interior dash light feed so the illuminate when the driving lights are switched on and they can be dimmed along with the rest of the interior lights, if you have a dimming wheel on your light control unit. http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/cool.png

Image1770.jpg

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Image1781.jpg

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Very nice lenny, i do like it indeed. my greatest concerns are will the original footwell light handle all of the extra leds? puddle lights, front and rear footwell lights plus potential cupholder light and or bird bath lights?

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Very nice lenny, i do like it indeed. my greatest concerns are will the original footwell light handle all of the extra leds? puddle lights, front and rear footwell lights plus potential cupholder light and or bird bath lights?

LEDs use less power than a standard t10 w5w bulb so your 100% safe mate,

Your cup holder lights, and bird bath will be wired to your interior light feed,

Your foot well lighting front/rear, ignition ring and door puddle lightsill be on your interior light circuit

You may wish to increase the auto on/off duration using a modified elm327 as they may dim a bit quick after you lock the car

But as said there led mate no cause for concern,

If it was too much the fuse would blow,

And if they were all standard bulbs then I'd say no way.

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If they are all LED's then the power load will still be lower than a pair of standard bulbs.

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awsome mod LENNY, love it mate, just let me know when you crossing over puddle ,so that i can see it in real.

yunii

btw see my old car bulid diary in titanium build diary.

yunii

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