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Boost Gauge Fitting Mk2.5 Focus 1.6Tdci


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#61 Lenny

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Posted 03 September 2013 - 05:12 PM

I would like it to come on and dim when lights are turned on...but the thing is I don't know how bright the bulb is I guess I can try the bulb by using a battery and test it that way surely? But I do want it dimmed :)


To get it dimmimg you will need to purchase a genlabs relay that I've linked you to in earleier pages of this thread.

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#62 footfistart

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Posted 03 September 2013 - 05:27 PM

Yeah I brought all of that crimps and cabling album all ready to wire up

#63 Lenny

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Posted 03 September 2013 - 05:54 PM

Yeah I brought all of that crimps and cabling album all ready to wire up


OK so you have the dimmer relay to hand ?

#64 footfistart

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Posted 03 September 2013 - 06:50 PM

Yeah I've got it at hand. I've got some scotch locks as a temp measure for now. Just need to know whether the wires are under the radio or the climate control? And what colours. Possible pictures would help as I'm a dummy

#65 footfistart

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 03:52 PM

I've got a slight issue... My dimmer only has 5 wires? Is That still ok? So do I run the 3amp cable from my gauge positive and negative down behind the radio where the relay will sit? So because I do t have the extra wires am I able to dim it?

IMAG0854.jpg

So if its the case how to I wire ot up without dimming. Will had more pics of my wiring

This is radio wiring. I have no idea what wire does what. Im struggling to get the climate controls out. I have no idea how they come out.

IMAG0856.jpg

Here's the cable thickness of the gauge which tells me hardly any power is required
I've tested the bulb and seems to be not as bright as I thought it would be. As it's a yellowish light it's shouldn't be as much glare as you would have with a white light?

IMAG0855.jpg


I have found a wiring diagram of the radio I'll add a pic of it below for you to have a look at. Maybe easier to come off the ignition live which is pin 16 and the wire is yellow/green and then pin 12 is ground... Which is green/black.

IMAG0857.jpg

IMAG0858.jpg

Would I need anything else as I don't think I can use the relay.

Here is the diagram of plug

Screenshot_2013-09-04-17-29-40.png

I think that is all I can add for now.....

#66 Lenny

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 06:35 PM

The relay operation will be

Two cables for feed inwards,

That's a positive and negative from your ignition.

Two cables feed outwards,
That's positive and negative feeding to your gauge.

One cable sensor feed,
This cable connects to an interior light positive
When it séances power in the line it will dim the flow to the gauge by 50%

Sorry for my lack of response this week mate,
I'm working nights and can be drowsey while online during the day,
Becomes a struggle to get in to technical discussions as I tend to become weak and black out on occasion lol

#67 footfistart

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 07:18 PM

That's alright no worries mate. Would you be able to tell me what colours do what on my module? And where will I find the interior light positive? So I need to splice into the positive and negative feed from ignition? What colours are the ignition cables and where will I find them? How do I remove the climate controls? Will the cables be behind that? All mine is all taped up keeping it neat ant tidy.. but to be honest I'm really confused on what does to what and what goes to where? Like the two feeds in? Where do they go. What colours am looking for? The two outs the go direct to to the gauge as in wire positive out and negative out to positive on gauge and negative on gauge right? So yeah sorry sorry for being like this. But I have no clue what's so ever. So wouldn't I be able To use the radio wiring?

#68 FOCA

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 08:50 PM

Hi - since your gauge is not that bright save youself a lot of hassle and just wire it up without dimming -

 

If you simply wire it up so it lights up when the (side) light are switched on - it should not need to be lit when the light are off

 

first of all you need an earth for your gauge -  connect the black wire to anything metal - the head unit might do - extend the wire if nessesary

 

then you have to connect the positive (red wire) on your gauge to the lights feed - i think this is pin 14 on your head unit

 

The wire has to stay connected to the head unit - you just "tap" into it with the scotchblok

 

Otherwise you can connect it to the lighting on your centre console - you may have to extend the wire and if you like you can fit an in-line fuse (as a precaution)  

 

You should not need to remove the climate controls and you wont need access to the ignition either



#69 footfistart

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Posted 05 September 2013 - 09:07 AM

Awesome that sounds loads better :) ill give that ago today once I've been down to my allotment (big project I've just picked up yesterday ) so yeah I thought I could use the radio wiring :) I'm glad now as I can do that and won't take me long at all. Thanks FOCA :)

#70 footfistart

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Posted 05 September 2013 - 03:36 PM

All wired up and now working... Happy days I'll post pics this evening when it's dark :) many thanks to all who has taken interest :)

#71 Lenny

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 03:57 PM

All wired up and now working... Happy days I'll post pics this evening when it's dark :) many thanks to all who has taken interest :)


Look forward to the pictures mate,

#72 footfistart

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 02:55 PM

Small update.... The gauge that I have has an internal leak. I believe it's a failed solenoid and let's air out. I've leak checked everything and it's the union itself. I managed to get a quarter of a tern on it but didn't make any difference. The gauge works but it seems to measure a lot of boost when on the move. In comparison with yours at 60mph my car is producing around 10-12psi and if I'm going down a hill it will drop to about 8psi. It peaks around 22-25psi depending on weather. So I'm not sure if the gauge is out of calibration. It flutters on tick over anything from -5psi to +2psi. I've got a inline filter to stop this flutter but doesn't seem to make any differences.

Here's a pic of it at night

IMAG0871.jpg

And during the day.

IMAG0822.jpg

#73 FOCA

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 03:04 PM

Fit a larger filter (larger internal volume) the flutter should stop - its the gauge reading the "pulses" from the cylinders - the closer the pick up point is to the inlet manifold - the bigger the "pulses" - if you fit the gauge pick-up-point at the output of the intercooler - you may not need a filter (the filter is required for its "volume"- a sealed can or container can work, too)

 

if the guage pick-up point is close to the compressor outlet - it can pick up the compressor "surging" etc

 

Your boost goes up and down in normal use - when you are accelerating hard, going uphill etc, or on "full throttle" the boost goes up, running downhill, "crouising" on the flat, at tickover - the boost comes down - the gauge measures this - it may just be doing its job

 

are you actually hearing hissing/ air escaping? or a lack of performance?

 

PS - a mechanical boost gauge does not have solenoids, or electrical parts (apart from the light ) - its a bit like a barometer (its a realatively simple mechanical device) they are fairly reliable, mostly, they are accurate give or take +- 2PSI - you will get a different reading depending where you put your pick-up-point (high on the outlet of the compressor, lower after the intercooler(due to the pressure drop))  

 

The reason you place the pick-up-point after the intercooler is it takes the intercooler pressure-drop into account and gives a more accurate idea of the boost "seen" by the engine - on advanced set-ups there may be 2 boost gauges to measure the pressure drop through the intercooler or measure the output of the compressor to optimise it, etc   



#74 footfistart

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 04:20 PM

I loosened The union and found that it was cracked. I received another boost gauge from the same company I asked on the off chance if you could send me another one as an exchange so I plumbed that in and the needle knocked and vibrates alot and I'm not prepared to take it apart so I'm going to send them both back when I get a yes on refund. Pain in the backside really. My pick up is on the rubber boost pipe just after the turbo. The filter I've got is big enough I know I can always go bigger but it just means more money really. Nevertheless I'm going to carry on and loon for a better gauge. Goes to show that price on somethings does mean better quality...

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