I don't see any other connector on the FCDIM

Ok, looks good. It would be worth checking behind the heater controls to see if they did actually fit anything there (like the old bluetooth module) while you've got everything apart...

8 minutes ago, JPW said:

Ok, looks good. It would be worth checking behind the heater controls to see if they did actually fit anything there (like the old bluetooth module) while you've got everything apart...

I'll have a look tomorrow, it's quite late now. Let's see if i do find something there.

Ok, so looking at all the diagrams I have available, this is what I believe should be required:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vVm92BeMgLA3eIBv__gG_zLr3Lh-I65dupdnaZQ3fjs/edit?usp=sharing

You'll need to get hold of a 54-pin APIM connector so you can make the connector you need to go in to the back of the Sync 3 unit. i.e. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Extension-cable-54pin-for-ford-sync_60678051034.html

The current ACM harness will go in to the Sync 3 ACM (radio) you purchase. You'll need to tap in to pin 6 which goes to the APIM 54-pin connector, pin 22.

Then, you'll need to use some wires from the FCDIM (the connector with the 12 pins) and also splice in to the OBD2 port to get the MM/MS/HS CAN circuit. I recommend the OBD2 port as it's easy to access, splice in to and you can wire all the CAN's from that single place, no need to splice from C23B or the climate / temperate control unit.

The white fakra goes in to the ACM for FM/AM radius

The black fakra goes in to the ACM for DAB (if present) - or purchase a new DAB antenna with a fakra connector

You'll need a GPS antenna which goes to the back of the APIM (blue fakra)

And if you want a USB port you'll need the media hub and run wires for that.

I'm sure you'll have questions so I'll help along the way...

do you happen to have pictures of your finished splicing?

what's this blue holder called?

I am interested in getting one.

You don't nee that blue one, it is part of the original Bluetooth module which is present in my car. You won't have this so not required.

Ah i was thinking of using it as a rest and a mold but nvm then. 

@JPW

I am curious for what you did and what you got for the central locking button. Would you mind showing it please?

Ok, I've got all the cut cables recovered from a crashed kuga sync 2 and there's pin 31 with a wire inserted, while in the pin scheme the 31 is empty... what is the pin 31 for?

On 2/27/2021 at 5:08 PM, JPW said:

I would recommend the other guide which is Sync 1 to Sync 2!

Ok, I've got all the cut cables recovered from a crashed kuga and there's pin 31 with a wire inserted, while in the pin scheme the 31 is empty... what is the pin 31 for?

I don't seem to have a gap to put the usb in, so i might just route it to the glovebox. guess that saves me a bit of work

Hi everyone,

I have just received my sync3 unit ready for the upgrade and have noticed that there is no central locking button. Does this not exist on the 2017+ focus 3? Or is it mounted somewhere else? Is the best solution to mount my own button and where would be a good place to fit it? I was hoping that everything would be as stock as possible.

Also, do I need the FIEB-A046B74-ACW part or can I use the trim already it the current facia?

Thanks for any help.

@gomme600 On the facelift MK3 (2015-2018) the door lock button was moved to the drivers door card, hence why they removed it from the radio fascia. I've tried fitting the facelift door card in my car and wired up the door lock button but it doesn't work.

That means when retrofitting SYNC 3 to a non SYNC 3 car, you have to add your own lock/unlock button in, or purchase the USA fascia which costs quite a bit and only available from the US:

 

The easy/cheap way is to simply wire any kind of momentary switch/button with an integrated LED. I used this small blue one and mounted it just under the gear stick so the driver or the passenger can easily operate it:

Press the button to lock/unlock the doors. The LED brightness changes when locked, and dims when unlocked so you can tell the state.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08GZ4ZGR5

FIEB-A046B74-ACW is required I believe as it is a different shape to the existing one.

5 hours ago, Daniele kuga II 2014 said:

Ok, I've got all the cut cables recovered from a crashed kuga and there's pin 31 with a wire inserted, while in the pin scheme the 31 is empty... what is the pin 31 for?

Pin 31 is not required for the 54-pin APIM connector

1 hour ago, Rowan112 said:

 

I don't seem to have a gap to put the usb in, so i might just route it to the glovebox. guess that saves me a bit of work

I believe on the Edge models, the USB was actually in the glovebox but it would seem yours never had it...

 

Do you have a blanking plate there or a cover?

1 minute ago, JPW said:

I believe on the Edge models, the USB was actually in the glovebox but it would seem yours never had it...

 

Do you have a blanking plate there or a cover?

so i don't have a usb plate there but i do see that there would be something there. i could most likely put it there by using some 3mm adhesive (janky i know)

Note that SYNC3 doesn't have Aux (Line-in) capability - only USB / Bluetooth support.

1 minute ago, JPW said:

Note that SYNC3 doesn't have Aux (Line-in) capability - only USB / Bluetooth support.

yeah i don't see any aux in or usb stuff in the glovebox. I am okay with the lack of the aux input.

I am planning to do it this weekend if i have all the parts come in

Nice one! What are you doing about the FCDIM connector? At present, that doesn't go in the back of the new SYNC 3 unit, but you do need some of the wires as per my wiring table. You can either tap in to them or cut the FCDIM connector off and just join to the relevant APIM wires...

8 minutes ago, JPW said:

Nice one! What are you doing about the FCDIM connector? At present, that doesn't go in the back of the new SYNC 3 unit, but you do need some of the wires as per my wiring table. You can either tap in to them or cut the FCDIM connector off and just join to the relevant APIM wires...

I'm thinking of tapping them, rather keep the connector there just incase, i'd rather have a backup incase it goes bad.

 

@JPW I am going to prep the car tomorrow. I am going to tap the OBD2 wires and route them into the stereo (no idea how to yet, see how i get to that stage first

Cool.What wire are you using?

9 minutes ago, JPW said:

Cool.What wire are you using?

going to be using ehse wires

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plusivo-Silicone-Wire-22AWG-Colors/dp/B07YFXG4KX/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=22awg+wire+stranded&qid=1614631575&sr=8-1

 

So i am going to buy that button for central locking, what did you connect the wires to?

Looks good 😄

12V (+) connects to FCIM (front fascia) pin 2 for the LED

0V (-) and C (common) connects to ground  (I tapped in to the 12v cigarette ground wire but any ground will do). 

NC connects to FCIM (front fascia) pin 6 for the lock/unlock function.

FYI the blue led is quite bright at night but no bad enough to distract you. Don't mount it straight in your view!