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Ford kuga 2013 automatic power shift titanium x


Rats13
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Hi at my whits end with my car bought it and then next day gearbox went cost me 3000 

said engine service now hill start assist not avalible and traction control 

anywayd had this done the gearbox problem sorted few days later traction control kept comming on only on hills or putting foot harder on acceleration it would jolt the car and then go off but keep doing it on and off .. 

Toll to garage had codes cleared some things sorted drive home couple days later same thing and hill start assist not avalible limited trasmission traction control turn car of for a few mins turn back on fine will drive fine but soon as hill or harder acceleration all starts again .. changed abs sensors not that no one can seem to find what is causing this the car owes me so much money and need to get to the bottom of it can anyone help or had same and what was it 😞 thanks 

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Using FORScan and the vLinker FS cable read the DTC's.

Is it an AWD Kuga or the FWD model ?

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Hill start assist and TC are nothing to do with the transmission, this is ABS module

Suspect faulty, low power battery first, Powershift needs full power

Then, if you're AWD, suspect transfer box

Ensure software is up to date

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10 hours ago, unofix said:

Using FORScan and the vLinker FS cable read the DTC's.

Is it an AWD Kuga or the FWD model ?

Awd kuga 

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2 hours ago, DaveT70 said:

Hill start assist and TC are nothing to do with the transmission, this is ABS module

Suspect faulty, low power battery first, Powershift needs full power

Then, if you're AWD, suspect transfer box

Ensure software is up to date

So are you saying get a new battery and see if this works ? 
if not then what ? 
thanks appreciate the reply 

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The answer is as Dave has said above. The Kuga AWD with a Powershift  gearbox and Haldex transfer system requires the battery to be in "tip top" condition.

Replace the battery with a new one and fully charge it for 12 hours 'before' fitting it. Then reset the battery Monitor System (BMS) which is a quick simple process, and does not require any tools.

I personally have a lot of experience with the 2010 Kuga AWD automatic and have seen issues very similar to what you have when ever it's battery State Of Charge (SOC) becomes low.

Ford - Battery SOC.JPG

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4 hours ago, DaveT70 said:

Hill start assist and TC are nothing to do with the transmission, this is ABS module

Suspect faulty, low power battery first, Powershift needs full power

Then, if you're AWD, suspect transfer box

Ensure software is up to date

Ok thanks will get a new battery is there a certain one you suggest or just from halford also isit best for them to fit it as it’s not just as easy as other cars isit ? 
how will I no what my current battery is giving of ? 
 

 

ps what is transfer box ? Thanks for your time 

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Also how do you check software is up to date im sure my car was all re programmed when gear box was done ? 

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Use this site and enter the registration of your car to find the correct battery:

https://www.tayna.co.uk/

I would recommend getting the Yuasa battery.

If you must get it fitted by Halfords then you will still need to fully charge the battery when you get home. You can charge it while it is fitted and connected to the car. Use a Smart battery charger, something like the Maypole (see amazon. £24.99). Charge the battery for 12 hours, make sure the positive lead is connected to the battery + terminal, and the negative lead must be connected to the chassis earth point, NOT the battery terminal. Then remember to reset the BMS.

You should buy a low cost digital multimeter (£12 or less) so that you can measure the battery voltage.

The AWD drive Kuga uses a fully automatic system to transfer power between wheels. The rear wheels are driven via a Haldex transfer unit located between the rear drive shaft and the rear wheels. It uses an electric Haldex pump which normally requires service and/or replacement at around 10 years of age. The work including parts is around £900.

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35 minutes ago, Rats13 said:

Also how do you check software is up to date im sure my car was all re programmed when gear box was done ? 

Do you have FORScan?

If not, it is highly recommended. Get the V-Linker or OBD-EX cable

When you connect there is a list of all the modules fitted to your vehicle, what their software part number currently is and what is available.

PCM & TCM should be kept up to date on these. there's probably a module for the transfer box too

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1 hour ago, unofix said:

Use this site and enter the registration of your car to find the correct battery:

https://www.tayna.co.uk/

I would recommend getting the Yuasa battery.

If you must get it fitted by Halfords then you will still need to fully charge the battery when you get home. You can charge it while it is fitted and connected to the car. Use a Smart battery charger, something like the Maypole (see Amazon. £24.99). Charge the battery for 12 hours, make sure the positive lead is connected to the battery + terminal, and the negative lead must be connected to the chassis earth point, NOT the battery terminal. Then remember to reset the BMS.

You should buy a low cost digital multimeter (£12 or less) so that you can measure the battery voltage.

The AWD drive Kuga uses a fully automatic system to transfer power between wheels. The rear wheels are driven via a Haldex transfer unit located between the rear drive shaft and the rear wheels. It uses an electric Haldex pump which normally requires service and/or replacement at around 10 years of age. The work including parts is around £900.

 

1 hour ago, DaveT70 said:

Do you have FORScan?

If not, it is highly recommended. Get the V-Linker or OBD-EX cable

When you connect there is a list of all the modules fitted to your vehicle, what their software part number currently is and what is available.

PCM & TCM should be kept up to date on these. there's probably a module for the transfer box too

Hi I will reply to the rest of your message after but is this the part your on about I no this is for a different year kyga but just so I no is this what you ment .. I will reply to everything else after thanks again 

FORD KUGA 2008-2012 HALDEX AWD REAR COUPLING DIFF PUMP GEN 4  eBay.jpeg

FORD KUGA 2008-2012 HALDEX AWD REAR COUPLING DIFF PUMP GEN 4  eBay.jpeg

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2 hours ago, unofix said:

Use this site and enter the registration of your car to find the correct battery:

https://www.tayna.co.uk/

I would recommend getting the Yuasa battery.

If you must get it fitted by Halfords then you will still need to fully charge the battery when you get home. You can charge it while it is fitted and connected to the car. Use a Smart battery charger, something like the Maypole (see Amazon. £24.99). Charge the battery for 12 hours, make sure the positive lead is connected to the battery + terminal, and the negative lead must be connected to the chassis earth point, NOT the battery terminal. Then remember to reset the BMS.

You should buy a low cost digital multimeter (£12 or less) so that you can measure the battery voltage.

The AWD drive Kuga uses a fully automatic system to transfer power between wheels. The rear wheels are driven via a Haldex transfer unit located between the rear drive shaft and the rear wheels. It uses an electric Haldex pump which normally requires service and/or replacement at around 10 years of age. The work including parts is around £900.

Or this one ? 

8V414C019AA FORD KUGA AOC oil pump rear Differential 8V41-4C019-AA 3rd.jpeg

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Yes they are both Haldex pumps. You would need to check very carefully which one your model uses as there are two different ones and they are not interchangeable. It takes about 5 hours work and the car needs to be on a garage type hoist.

Full haldex service kits are available (NOT genuine Ford) or you can get the real parts and the job done at a Ford garage for £3000

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/repair-and-service-kits/ford-kuga-9v4n4c019aa-pump-kit-with-oil-and-filter-2009-onwards/

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1 hour ago, unofix said:

Yes they are both Haldex pumps. You would need to check very carefully which one your model uses as there are two different ones and they are not interchangeable. It takes about 5 hours work and the car needs to be a garage type hoist.

Full haldex service kits are available (NOT genuine Ford) or you can get the real parts and the job done at a Ford garage for £3000

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/repair-and-service-kits/ford-kuga-9v4n4c019aa-pump-kit-with-oil-and-filter-2009-onwards/

Thank you so much I will get the battery first and if it isn’t that then looks like this will be the next step ordered a obd reader today gonna try this see if it rings up anything prob a waste of money this car after buying it 4 months ago and paying 5.5 for it has since cost me another 4.5 😭😭

I appriciate your help so so much !!!!!!!!! 

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23 hours ago, unofix said:

The very, very best that you can get for a Ford (excluding the main dealers equipment) is the software FORScan and it's free for use on a windows laptop, or £7 for use on a mobile phone.

You will need an adapter (not free) which depends on what you are using.

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

vLinker FS (laptop use): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

vLinker FD (android use): https://www.amazon.co.uk/vLinker-FD-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B0BLJM5QJH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1O1OEWZAR5QYP&keywords=vLinker%2BFD&qid=1694979731&s=automotive&sprefix=vlinker%2Bfd%2Cautomotive%2C87&sr=1-3&th=1

vLinker FD+ (iPhone use): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

Please note that the phone versions can not make programming changes. They read all of the Ford DTC's and can reset service indicators and clear fault codes.

It is important to understand that generic code readers usually will not read the Ford specific DTC's.

FORScan has been specially developed for use with Ford vehicles and will read both of the Canbus systems used by Ford and will also read the specific codes.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/18/2023 at 4:01 PM, unofix said:

Yes they are both Haldex pumps. You would need to check very carefully which one your model uses as there are two different ones and they are not interchangeable. It takes about 5 hours work and the car needs to be on a garage type hoist.

Full haldex service kits are available (NOT genuine Ford) or you can get the real parts and the job done at a Ford garage for £3000

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/repair-and-service-kits/ford-kuga-9v4n4c019aa-pump-kit-with-oil-and-filter-2009-onwards/

Hi just wanted to update you so it went in for battery check that was all fine and still perfect working order ! 
sent in for a major service … 

22 codes come up they cleared them changed air filter said that was awful etc 

anyways got car home 

next day did it again only on acceleration harder than normal day to day and up a incline of a road happens everytime 

 

anyways took it back in today they said only code that had come back up is the large fuel leak 2 people have checked the car over there is no fuel leak cisable had fuel filter changed a month ago as had water inside 

 

 

no one can get to the bottom of this .. 

 

do you fix cars as u seem to no slot and where are you based at my whits end with this car and cannot throw much more money into it as in debt so much from it 

 

needs a timing belt change witch I don’t mind doing if we can find the root of this problem but no one can seem to be able to 🤦‍♀️

thank you 

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1 hour ago, Rats13 said:

they said only code that had come back up is the large fuel leak

What is the code ?

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On 10/3/2023 at 2:04 PM, unofix said:

What is the code ?

I’m not sure they did me a favour and didn’t charge on the re scan so I didn’t get a print out they just said only code that come up was fuel leak booked in to have air filter re done I no the problem will still be there then will have to start again ! I am trying to get the exact code they told me they would try get it of the terminal for me 

I did by a For scan with a disc but wouldn’t have a clue wat to do 

 

we’re are you based thanks again 

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It'll probably be P0093.  Not an overly helpful code unfortunately.

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34 minutes ago, Rats13 said:

we’re are you based thanks again 

Durham, 14 miles south of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne. 😀

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1 hour ago, unofix said:

Durham, 14 miles south of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne. 😀

Bit far away then from me lol 😂 

any ideas ? 

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12 minutes ago, Rats13 said:

any ideas ? 

The first thing you need to do is to get FORScan and then you can read ALL of the codes yourself. There are versions available for a Windows Laptop (Free), or for an Android Mobile or for iPhone which cost £7

Depending on what you are going to use you will need an adapter.

If you use either of the mobile phone versions you will be able to leave the dongle plugged in all the time. When a fault occurs you can then use FORScan to read the code immediately without switching off the engine.

Depending on the codes than that will start to point you in the right direction to find the fault. 

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18 hours ago, unofix said:

The first thing you need to do is to get FORScan and then you can read ALL of the codes yourself. There are versions available for a Windows Laptop (Free), or for an Android Mobile or for iPhone which cost £7

Depending on what you are going to use you will need an adapter.

If you use either of the mobile phone versions you will be able to leave the dongle plugged in all the time. When a fault occurs you can then use FORScan to read the code immediately without switching off the engine.

Depending on the codes than that will start to point you in the right direction to find the fault. 
 

did my last message sent from this msg as my message as it isn’t showing ?

if not I’ll re write it  

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Just now, Rats13 said:
18 hours ago, unofix said:

The first thing you need to do is to get FORScan and then you can read ALL of the codes yourself. There are versions available for a Windows Laptop (Free), or for an Android Mobile or for iPhone which cost £7

Depending on what you are going to use you will need an adapter.

If you use either of the mobile phone versions you will be able to leave the dongle plugged in all the time. When a fault occurs you can then use FORScan to read the code immediately without switching off the engine.

Depending on the codes than that will start to point you in the right direction to find the fault. 
 

did my last message sent from this msg as my message as it isn’t showing ?

if not I’ll re write it  

 

Just now, Rats13 said:
18 hours ago, unofix said:

The first thing you need to do is to get FORScan and then you can read ALL of the codes yourself. There are versions available for a Windows Laptop (Free), or for an Android Mobile or for iPhone which cost £7

Depending on what you are going to use you will need an adapter.

If you use either of the mobile phone versions you will be able to leave the dongle plugged in all the time. When a fault occurs you can then use FORScan to read the code immediately without switching off the engine.

Depending on the codes than that will start to point you in the right direction to find the fault. 
 

did my last message sent from this msg as my message as it isn’t showing ?

if not I’ll re write it  

I have both of these and have downloaded the app so it’s all ready to go .. what do I need to do I assume if it’s on my phone I don’t need the disc .. how do I link it all and do I keep it connected in my my car etc .. I have it all ready to go just not sure where to start or what to do 

the 2 apps I have screen shot one is a for scan other one is a diff one I downloaded both thanks 

IMG_8487.png

IMG_8486.png

IMG_8492.png

IMG_8493.png

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You probably won't need the disk if you are running Windows 7,8 or 10. I don't think that lead will work on Windows 11.

On your iPhone you just need to open up the app and connect to the vLinker FD+ dongle once it is plugged in. Then you will be able to read the DTC's and vehicle information at anytime your car is running.

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