Hi I have a 2006 1.8 l Ford Focus Sport. I haven't driven for 2 months due to major surgery and complications. 
When I went to open car as normal using key fob, it wouldn't open. Locked out of car. 
Changed battery in key fob. Tried different combinations of pressing key fob, including waiting 5 secs and pressing some at the same time. Also tried it with spare key, that has no fob attached.  
Opened bonnet and checked battery charge, using multimeter. Ok as 12.20. Alarm went off when opened bonnet and indicator lights flashed. Once alarm stopped, lights continued to flash for a short period. 
Pressed all fob keys - made no difference. Petrol cap also won't open (no lock), seems to have sealed shut. 
Several cars in area stolen recently, so wonder if has been attempted entry (no sign of that). Nothing on house cameras to show intruders.  
Would really appreciate any help with this mystery. We really need to get into the car. Usually after any length of rest, we would turn the car over every so often. However, this time it couldn't be helped due to surgery complications etc 
 

12.2v isn't really OK, you should be at least 12.8v for proper operation. Either try a jump start with another car, or, put it on a charge for at least 24 hours. Shouldn't be too much wrong, but older cars aren't keen on being left alone...

'Jump start' - connect red/black cables to battery from 'donor' car (black to black, red to red), let donor car rev to 2000/3000 RPM, then twist key on 'flat' battery car. Should spin over and start. Disconnect cables carefully, and go for a brief drive, 10 to 15 minutes, though even then, leaving  on a proper charge would be best.

thanks for the reply @StephenFord 

we will try the battery charge.donMt suppose you have any instructions on how to do a battery charge? thanks 

18 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

12.2v isn't really OK, you should be at least 12.8v for proper operation. Either try a jump start with another car, or, put it on a charge for at least 24 hours. Shouldn't be too much wrong, but older cars aren't keen on being left alone...

'Jump start' - connect red/black cables to battery from 'donor' car (black to black, red to red), let donor car rev to 2000/3000 RPM, then twist key on 'flat' battery car. Should spin over and start. Disconnect cables carefully, and go for a brief drive, 10 to 15 minutes, though even then, leaving  on a proper charge would be best.

 

7 minutes ago, drlu said:

thanks for the reply @StephenFord 

we will try the battery charge.donMt suppose you have any instructions on how to do a battery charge? thanks 

!st, buy a battery charger! This one is used by many on the forum, cheap, but very useful functionality. Once attached to the battery just leave it to do it's stuff. From 12.2v could take 12+ hours to get underway.

MayPole battery charger...

 

I've just realised as well as the battery issue, you say you can't get into your car. Does the metal blade key on your fob not work in the drivers door?

Battery State Of Charge values

2 hours ago, StephenFord said:

I've just realised as well as the battery issue, you say you can't get into your car. Does the metal blade key on your fob not work in the drivers door?

hiya

no its as if the car has locked down. if battery is low or dead is it still possible for alarm to go off? 

and thank you again 😊

7 hours ago, drlu said:

hiya

no its as if the car has locked down. if battery is low or dead is it still possible for alarm to go off? 

and thank you again 😊

Yes, alarm siren will usually have it's own built in rechargeable battery. You never did say, if you put the key in the door to unlock what happens when you try and open it?

It's the right age for the instrument cluster to have gone down too, that could be causing it.

It looks like it's gone into deep sleep and won't come out

1 minute ago, DaveT70 said:

It's the right age for the instrument cluster to have gone down too, that could be causing it.

I was trying not to complicate the matter LOL 🤣

1 hour ago, StephenFord said:

Yes, alarm siren will usually have it's own built in rechargeable battery. You never did say, if you put the key in the door to unlock what happens when you try and open it?

hiya @StephenFord When we put the key in the lock - it still won’t unlock either. we can’t get into the car at all. boot, doors won’t open. fuel cap where petrol goes in has locked too.

we can only get under bonnet. 

 

Just now, drlu said:

hiya @StephenFord When we put the key in the lock - it still won’t unlock either. we can’t get into the car at all. boot, doors won’t open. fuel cap where petrol goes in has locked too...

The 'key' is a mechanical function, not dependent of state of battery. Will the key actually turn, or is the lock acting as if it has seized?

I'm going out shortly, so will pre-empt you with this advice.

I'm guessing you haven't used the key in the lock in living memory, hence, it has now seized through lack of use. You'll need to 'free' it up. Use a spray of oil, like 3 in 1 oil (not WD40!). Spray some on the blade, and also use the nozzle to spray some directly in through the actual keyhole. Then, you'll need to wiggle the key in the lock. You'll need patience as it won't free up immediately. It's a balancing act of being 'gentle', but 'firm'!

Keep repeating this until you get the key to move the locking mechanism. (When I bought my car used, it took me over 20 minutes to free up the seized lock, which I now use once/month to ensure it doesn't seize again)

Once you do get the lock to operate, you'll also find the fuel filler cap will unlock as well as it's all linked to the central locking.

Let us know how you get on..

 

 

6 hours ago, StephenFord said:

I'm going out shortly, so will pre-empt you with this advice.

I'm guessing you haven't used the key in the lock in living memory, hence, it has now seized through lack of use. You'll need to 'free' it up. Use a spray of oil, like 3 in 1 oil (not WD40!). Spray some on the blade, and also use the nozzle to spray some directly in through the actual keyhole. Then, you'll need to wiggle the key in the lock. You'll need patience as it won't free up immediately. It's a balancing act of being 'gentle', but 'firm'!

Keep repeating this until you get the key to move the locking mechanism. (When I bought my car used, it took me over 20 minutes to free up the seized lock, which I now use once/month to ensure it doesn't seize again)

Once you do get the lock to operate, you'll also find the fuel filler cap will unlock as well as it's all linked to the central locking.

Let us know how you get on..

 

 

8 hours ago, StephenFord said:

Yes, alarm siren will usually have it's own built in rechargeable battery. You never did say, if you put the key in the door to unlock what happens when you try and open it?

hiya @StephenFord When we put the key in the lock - it still won’t unlock either. we can’t get into the car at all. boot, doors won’t open. fuel cap where petrol goes in has locked too.

we can only get under bonnet. 

Thanks @StephenFord Forgot to mention before - tried the spare (fobless) key and it did feel like the whole lock was stuck and needed ‘freeing up’. Used WD40 (! sorry, we hadn’t spoken then lol) which didn’t make any difference. don’t have any 3 in 1 oil. did order the battery charger which is coming tomorrow so will try those things and let you know how I get on. Thanks for your suggestions!

3 minutes ago, drlu said:

hiya @StephenFord When we put the key in the lock - it still won’t unlock either. we can’t get into the car at all. boot, doors won’t open. fuel cap where petrol goes in has locked too.

we can only get under bonnet. 

Thanks @StephenFord Forgot to mention before - tried the spare (fobless) key and it did feel like the whole lock was stuck and needed ‘freeing up’. Used WD40 (! sorry, we hadn’t spoken then lol) which didn’t make any difference. don’t have any 3 in 1 oil. did order the battery charger which is coming tomorrow so will try those things and let you know how I get on. Thanks for your suggestions!

Treat yourself to a spray can of '3 in 1' too, has loads of other uses as well. Wouldn't give up on the lock just yet. If it has seized, which it sounds like it has, there's a good chance it will unseize itself with some perseverance and oil.

2 hours ago, StephenFord said:

Wouldn't give up on the lock just yet.

What about the use of a "Liverpool Ford Master Key" ? 🤣

Do you know if it worked for the other guy who was locked out, he seemed very keen to try it ?

@StephenFord we can get in the car again and it is all thanks to you! thankyou 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 we haven’t taken it out yet- baby steps but will do soon. thanks again 

1 minute ago, drlu said:

@StephenFord we can get in the car again and it is all thanks to you! thankyou 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 we haven’t taken it out yet- baby steps but will do soon. thanks again 

That's great Lucy - what worked?

3 hours ago, StephenFord said:

what worked?

Bought one of these.... 🤣

On 2/4/2024 at 4:56 PM, unofix said:

You can order one of these from your Ford dealer on Monday

 

13 hours ago, StephenFord said:

That's great Lucy - what worked?

@StephenFord the 3 in one spray 😊😊

hi @StephenFord the 3 in 1 oil worked a treat thank you and I was able to get into the car. engine turned over ok. A red light came on the dashboard like a red cog icon on. i sat in car with engine on idle for 30 mins. switched engine off. when i switched engine on started ok and the red light had disappeared. 

was going to use the mp7423 electronic battery charger to top charge up but got concerned about how to put negative clip of charger onto vehicle chassis, as not clear where or how to do this.(youtube searched didn’t help!) I feel like abandoning this and taking car for a 30min drive some time and hope that is sufficient to get it back to normal.

Would appreciate any thoughts you have on this. Thank you

13 minutes ago, drlu said:

was going to use the mp7423 electronic battery charger to top charge up but got concerned about how to put negative clip of charger onto vehicle chassis, as not clear where or how to do this...

You have a choice. You car is of an age that you can connect the -ve terminal to the battery direct (to the -ve terminal), OR connect it to the chassis. That just means clipping it to the bodywork somewhere, and there is usually a handy 'nut' located near the battery on the wing which will serve this purpose. More modern cars can't be connected directly to the battery as this bypasses the Battery Monitoring System (BMS), which your car won't have.

Yes, running it for a while will get you going, but to prevent further trauma, I would suggest you properly charge it, and as it's first proper charge will take 12+ hours, I'd start it in the morning and do it all day, unless you have a secure location and can leave it overnight.

Like I said before, just leave the charger to do it's stuff, watching it will do your head in LOL The background display will be red on charging, and when fully done, will turn green. In daylight this will be hard to see, but hold your hand over display to shield it and you'll see it.

hi @StephenFord 

could you explain where on the chassis we put it? 

we are just a bit worried about getting electrocuted. can you put it on the chassis with the crocodile clips? 

thanks for being so incredibly helpful. 

19 minutes ago, drlu said:

hi @StephenFord 

could you explain where on the chassis we put it? 

we are just a bit worried about getting electrocuted. can you put it on the chassis with the crocodile clips? 

thanks for being so incredibly helpful. 

You absolutely use the crocodile clip to attach it to the chassis. Like I said look for an exposed nut or similar in proximity to the battery, see attached, circled in red a few potential exposed nuts to attach clip to.. You'll not electrocute yourself, it's 12v... I always connect the charger up 1st, then when crocodile clips are nice & secure, then plug charger into the mains.