Tato Posted June 16, 2012 Author Share Posted June 16, 2012 I really love this, I have read this project from start to finish! Top work!! I really like it! One thing I thought about doing today while cleaning mine today is doing is respraying the rear diffuser and spoiler gloss black like the focus RS MK2 ;) Cheers mate! I am glad you like it :) I hope I can keep up the good work...I still have some things in mind but let's see where the budget takes me :D Next in plan this month is to add the amp and the subwoofer. Anyway, remember to take a look once in a while! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tato Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Next step is to install the sub and the amp. Both are Mac Audio. Here is the amp: http://www.mac-audio.de/index.php?id=3615&L=1&cHash=d24e94152cab5ec6f88bec9f84a5b054 And here is the sub: http://www.mac-audio.de/index.php?id=3216&L=1&cHash=d24e94152cab5ec6f88bec9f84a5b054 Now I have one question for the ones that know this more, which is a good solution for a good wiring kit for the amp and sub? Anything that you would recommend from here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=car+amplifier+wiring+kit&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1 What about this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002SETLKQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunne1rat Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 10 gauge is too thin. I would say 8 as a minimum for this amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tato Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 10 gauge is too thin. I would say 8 as a minimum for this amp. I am afraid I don't get this "gauge" thing...can you make it more clear? :D It would make it easier for me to understand if you show me what you mean, maybe a link could help. Cheers mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartynS Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Take a look at this link, all the info you need! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tato Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 In the instruction manual of the sub, the manufacturer recommends 2x2.5mm for short distances and 2x4mm for longer than 3 meters. Cheer MartynS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunne1rat Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 The gauge refers to the thickness of the wire. Thicker wire carries more current to your amp. If you are powering the amp and the subwoofer together, you need to be sure that the cable can support the heavy current that the amps will require. To save running multiple cables you can use a single cable of 4 or 0 gauge. If your power cable is too thin, the cable will become hot and could start a fire so it is important to get it right first time. The earth lead should not be longer than 1m, must be earthed to cleaned bare metal and must not cross the live cable. The live cable must not cross the audio cables as this will introduce alternator whine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tato Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 The gauge refers to the thickness of the wire. Thicker wire carries more current to your amp. If you are powering the amp and the subwoofer together, you need to be sure that the cable can support the heavy current that the amps will require. To save running multiple cables you can use a single cable of 4 or 0 gauge. If your power cable is too thin, the cable will become hot and could start a fire so it is important to get it right first time. The earth lead should not be longer than 1m, must be earthed to cleaned bare metal and must not cross the live cable. The live cable must not cross the audio cables as this will introduce alternator whine. Thanks for the explanation mate! What about this one, would it be enough: http://www.amazon.de...=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF By the way, I think I've read somewhere on this forum that I might also need this kind of thing: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YIVDq399Rgh/p_236REQ/MTX-re-Q.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunne1rat Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Tato, the wiring kit in your link looks like it has a 60A fuse. It will be ok for the amp (as that is fused at 60A), but you couldn't run your sub from the same power feed. The sound processor is good but not essential. Personally, I would reconsider your needs. There is very little point in amplifing the rear Speakers as this will interfere with the stage you are trying to create at the front so leave these connected to the headunit. You will get much better results ditching the powered subwoofer and use a 4 channel amp to drive the front Speakers on channels 1/2 and a subwoofer bridged on channels 3/4. You can then house the subwoofer speaker in an off the shelf box or better still fabricate one yourself from fibreglass to fit the car perfectly (which is what I did with my last install). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tato Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 Tato, the wiring kit in your link looks like it has a 60A fuse. It will be ok for the amp (as that is fused at 60A), but you couldn't run your sub from the same power feed. The sound processor is good but not essential. Personally, I would reconsider your needs. There is very little point in amplifing the rear speakers as this will interfere with the stage you are trying to create at the front so leave these connected to the headunit. You will get much better results ditching the powered subwoofer and use a 4 channel amp to drive the front speakers on channels 1/2 and a subwoofer bridged on channels 3/4. You can then house the subwoofer speaker in an off the shelf box or better still fabricate one yourself from fibreglass to fit the car perfectly (which is what I did with my last install). So basically your suggestion would be to amplify the front Speakers and leave the rear one out (connected to the headunit) plus the sub right? Honestly is it really worth amplifying the front basic Speakers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunne1rat Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Sorry, I wasn't clear. If you are not intending to upgrade the front Speakers, then there is little point adding a subwoofer. The Fiesta standard Speakers are not the best quality, only rated at around 20w and distort like crazy at higher volume levels. Get some decent component Speakers in the front doors driven with a decent amp and you may find you have enough bass without the need for a sub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tato Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 Sorry, I wasn't clear. If you are not intending to upgrade the front speakers, then there is little point adding a subwoofer. The Fiesta standard speakers are not the best quality, only rated at around 20w and distort like crazy at higher volume levels. Get some decent component speakers in the front doors driven with a decent amp and you may find you have enough bass without the need for a sub. So only the component Speakers might improve considerably the sounds right? That way I could also change the rear Speakers also and have all of them amplified, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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