Lenny Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 .. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgen Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 Not hard core just dont know which the Cat and which the DPF so both must die when the time comes :D What have you started lol, broke the Vax out and give the seats a quick going over as they were black when I got it, first sprayed the seats with this stain remover foam from asda 99p a tin on special ;) , then done the seats with the wet vax, 40min from start to finish cos I can keep mine and do another time :P. Before After still damp but better 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOCA Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 Sounds good George, Get the dpf internally removed, will give you more torque, high end boost and 0.4 km per litre of a fuel increase +1 + no more problems with or money needed to be spent to clean, repair, or replace the DMF anymore 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b4zz Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 looks like the seat came up well. think I may have to invest in a wet vac at some point 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgen Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 For the quick going over I gave them I thought they would need redoing when dry, but they are spot on LOL. got a damp !Removed! going to work this morning and windscreen was all misted up but left the windows down a touch at work and lovely sunny day, so when got back in car this afternoon, was all dry. :) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenny Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 For the quick going over I gave them I thought they would need redoing when dry, but they are spot on LOL. got a damp !Removed! going to work this morning and windscreen was all misted up but left the windows down a touch at work and lovely sunny day, so when got back in car this afternoon, was all dry. :) Jammy !Removed! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgen Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 Jammy !Removed! LOL, I have a headstart on you tho mate, Many moons ago I owned a valeting business so have done it once or twice before :P, must be like riding a bike :D yours must be cleaner than they left the factory now tho ;) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgen Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 Well today I changed the complete thermostat housing thermostat and sensor, the reason behind this was two fold, first since buying the car the temp gauge never even gets to the quarter position, its always being half way between cold and the quarter, and secondly when I fitted the tuning box I noticed water on top of the gearbox and the tell tale red marks around the housing plus was loosing a small amount of water, so thought well on the temp front either thermostat or sensor dodgy and on the leak front the plastic housing has dis-formed causing a leak. Well Its fitted but temp still the same so I will have to have a think why its showing so cold, pipes are hot, hot air comes from heater and when you put it into test mode the needle sweeps as it should, Next stage will be to short connection out to see if gauge reads hot and ill go from there, will post a couple of pics later of process. Heres a few pics Fistly this is the place you need to look, its to the left of the battery bolted onto the side of the head. Remove your airfilter to turbo intake pipe, also unfasten your fuel filter and put to one side still connected to its pipes but remove the wire connection. disconnect your vac pipe from the pump Remove temp sensor wire plug and the three water pipes. Now with a quarter drive 8mm socket and small extension remove the four securing bolts. there is another torxs screw hiding underneath the fastness another pipe to the unit that has to be removed, here is a pic of said screw with unit out so you can see. you can now remove the unit and clean around mounting face, I use a stanley blade for this then wipe with cloth, I then used a hose and flushed all pipes including the expansion tank. Now its reverse your actions to refit new one once refitted fill with new coolant, for a 50% mix on a empty system this would be 3.5 - 4 litres. start car with heaters on hot with cap off and squeeze pipes and watch air come out of system. add mor coolant or water if the level drops below the max level. after about 5 minutes put cap on and take for a drive, when you return recheck level but remember to let it cool down before removing cap on a hot engine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenny Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Well today I changed the complete thermostat housing thermostat and sensor, the reason behind this was two fold, first since buying the car the temp gauge never even gets to the quarter position, its always being half way between cold and the quarter, and secondly when I fitted the tuning box I noticed water on top of the gearbox and the tell tale red marks around the housing plus was loosing a small amount of water, so thought well on the temp front either thermostat or sensor dodgy and on the leak front the plastic housing has dis-formed causing a leak. Well Its fitted but temp still the same so I will have to have a think why its showing so cold, pipes are hot, hot air comes from heater and when you put it into test mode the needle sweeps as it should, Next stage will be to short connection out to see if gauge reads hot and ill go from there, will post a couple of pics later of process.Good to have this job done before the frost comes in mate,May have made the seal worse 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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