ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Just been to perrys ford in alfreton who basically said the same as the other ford garage. Apparently smart charge can charge as low as 11 volts upwards. Though it was a 50 mile round trip the battery when I got got was still only at 11.7v while standing with the engine off. im gonna book in with an auto electrition to see if he can solve it. Ford have said said the alternator only provides just enough charge to the battery and car while the engine is running. but when my local chap did a voltage test on the alternator he said out the back was only 12.2v and he thought that was wrong even with the smart charge system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 (edited) On 16/06/2016 at 11:59 AM, ZetecShearer1987 said: Just been to perrys ford in alfreton who basically said the same as the other ford garage. Apparently smart charge can charge as low as 11 volts upwards. Though it was a 50 mile round trip the battery when I got got was still only at 11.7v while standing with the engine off. im gonna book in with an auto electrition to see if he can solve it. Ford have said said the alternator only provides just enough charge to the battery and car while the engine is running. but when my local chap did a voltage test on the alternator he said out the back was only 12.2v and he thought that was wrong even with the smart charge system These garages are irritating me a bit. Unless the battery is not lead-acid, (and EFB, AGM & Silver Calcium are all variants of basic lead-acid), then it is physically not possible to get the battery voltage down to 11v unless it is either being heavily discharged at the time (like starting the car), or it is flat and being damaged by being flat. If the alternator output is directly connected to the battery, as it is on all cars I have seen to date, then the same can be said for the alternator output. 11v is just not right at all, and 12.2v is not good enough! Your local chap was right. What Ford say is almost certainly correct, but an EFB, AGM or silver calcium type of lead-acid battery needs over 14v, up to 14.4v, for it to charge. See what the auto-electrician says. Hope he knows a bit better. Peter. Edited June 17, 2016 by Tdci-Peter Add EFB Variant as per Iantt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 That's the battery I have the same one that came out beforehand. The only option available for my model of focus from the ford dealer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Thats the correct battery, efb, ( enhanced flooded battery) when your checking the voltage I take it your only using the dash as reference, and if you are what are you doing to keep eye on voltage once running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 It's just been to a local auto electrition for a test. He has confirmed a charging issue with the car, but isn't 100 percent sure if its the belt slipping or the alternator itself or the smart charge system with the Ecu. He advised that it needs to go back to ford even though they can't find any issues. im at a loss what to do now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 The dash board matched exactly the readout on his device he was using, while driving I keep the dashboard diagnosis on to watch the data live Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I find that strange then, the dash voltage is only a snapshot, so unless you constantly scroll through back and forth to voltages on display will you get a reading relevant, also that display is way off what the actual voltage at battery is, I will demonstrate in a few minutes with a random car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 The voltage on the dash goes up and down while I drive I'll upload a video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp999 Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 My dad had battery problems on his previous (non ford) car, the dealer ended up resetting the battery stats and it cured it. For some reason the car was stopping the charge to the battery at a much lower level, causing other modules to go in to power saving mode (like the aircon). I assume Ford's have this sort of thing too, do you know if the dealer has tried clearing them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 As you can see there is a difference in voltage., this battery is in a good state and 75% charged so optimum for stop start function. But display shows less than 12v. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 this is one of the recordings of the dash while driving it, live fluctuations and only 11.8v charge while driving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I do think there is a fault with your car though. Stop start not functioning is still indicating a charging issue . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 couple more videos of the same issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 theres a contradiction in 2nd vid, 11.8 v and stop start working. shows 11.8v is wrong. right, i thought i would do same video on mine but not driving, engine running and stop start cutting in. you will be suprised to see what i got. and bear in mind my battery is fine, charges ok, and stop start works nearly all the time. first is photo of voltage that stayed constant for 8 miles, will upload video in a min Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Yeah show me the video any help is muchly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 sorry, having issues uploading to youtube, not an expert in that sort of stuff, still trying.lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 https://youtu.be/EIzqKcYaIvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 As you will see voltage is similar to yours, I can rev up and voltage appears not to move until I scroll back and forth, the stop start cut in and out a couple of times by my input on clutch. But my battery and charging system is working fine as stop start requires minimum 68% charge to enable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Thanks Ian just watched the video, your display shows a snapshot of the voltage where my older one shows live data show it goes up and down without having to flick up and down, yours went to 14 odd volts on that, during the test today it didn't go anywhere near that. the electrical specialist did say it definitely has a charging problem but couldn't pin point what it was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 tell your auto electrician , its linbus from alternator to pcm, hs can from pcm to bcm and linbus from bcm to battery monitoring sensor on battery negative post. so basically the battery monitoring sensor information obtained is used to calculate the required set value for generator charge voltage. This is sent by the BCM to the PCM via the HS-CAN (controller area network) data bus. This then adjusts the value received if necessary and passes it on the generator via theLIN data bus. The charging voltage is adjusted depending on various parameters, such as the current level of engine efficiency. The smallest possible set value for the generator voltage is 12.2 V, while the maximum charging voltage may be anywhere between 14.5 and 14.9 V.However, when the battery is in a refresh phase, the voltage may occasionally reach up to 15.2 V. These refresh phases are required as the battery charge status is 80% over long periods of time, which increases the risk of sulfation in the cells. you cant beat a bit of copy and paste to speed up an explanation. lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjt Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 You must have got that from a US site, Ian. In this country it's spelt 'sulphation'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 I drive to work this morning, about a 3 mile commute. I monitored the battery charge while driving again and it was a constant 14v to the battery. The car felt great and smooth with no running issues, and yet the last few days it's been running really low and poor drivability.. so confused Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 Major problem tonight, my car died out on me. Came to a traffic light junction the car went on the start stop and switched off, then refused to come back on. Took a minute for the car to start, with very angry cars behind. eventually the car started and the revs were bouncing between 500 and 1.5 revs and wouldn't accelerate at all, had to creep home back to the house with no power and the car kangarooing. Ive turned the engine off now. no fault codes came up what shall I do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp999 Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 What are you using to read codes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 I use a bluefin reader though the remap is currently not on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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