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Did the garage tell you the errors they cleared? Presumably they didn't think they were relevant to the faults you're seeing. The first thought that occurs to me is that maybe one or more of the wheel ABS sensors has been disturbed, maybe a connector knocked and not contacting properly.

I'm doubting whether the spring is in the barrel or in the switch now. If it's in the switch, that's very easy to change as its not coded to the key at all. First one on eBay - please double check compatibility if you decide to buy one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352839331111?

I don't have that fuse the top end of that side is empty on mines. I tried the canbus too and no luck. Also tried going back to sync again and the screen just stays on the clock.

Yep I can confirm that too...so now when you manually fold the mirrors out on a cold and frosty morning the mirrors won't keep your finger tips warm and cosy...the misers 🤣

Update. Rear end is sorted. No more bouncing and unpredictable change of direction when going through the bend. And I can keep up with traffic. Now, back to the front. I suspect it's so hard because it's rides on the bump stops. Is that possible? It's a picture of front wheel, car is leveled. Does it seems low to you?

I think he's screwed the original up messing around with Forscan...see the other three posts. My advice...take it to someone who knows what they are doing....i.e. a Ford dealer...now don't laugh, can't believe I just said that 🤣 or a good auto electrican.

Slight update as been away, oddly enough if i press the clutch down when TURNING the Engine OFF. It does not show the EML.

had the from lower arm replaced an when driving home the car is going straight but the steering wheel is slight to the right but going straight ahead? can anyone help thanks

UPDATE, took it to bits, was the on/off switch. fettled it seems ok.

Not sure if it's the same but I have a 2009 1.6d and it is cable..there is a small adjustment at the clutch end behind the plastic cover passanger side underneath...just remember the original settings though

Hi all, Well wanted to take SWIMBO shopping today, car started ok then alert Power steering malfunction. Engine light on and steering like a brick. On the mk3 I had would have first checked the fluid but not knowing this car, 2012 tdci 2.0 163 hp, I am confused on what the type of power steering is fitted. I tried using Forscan and it came back with something about power steering module not corresponding, or something to that order, should have taken a picture but have downloaded latest version now so no record Doh. Would someone be so kind as to clarify what system is fitted as cannot find PSF reservoir and am wondering if it is an all electrical system. Many thanks

Forscan is a diagnostic app specifically for Fords that anyone can use with a laptop or smartphone. The choices for adapter are below (courtesy of Unofix). FORScan (for use with Windows Laptop) : https://forscan.org/download.html vLinker FS, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP vLinker FD, for android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L vLinker FD+, for iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

Normally we always recommend the use of FORScan as it is almost as good as the Ford dealers software, but as far as I know it only supports iPhone using the adapter vLinker FD+ which has been developed for FORScan. Of course as I've previously said, you can only make programme changes using a Windows Laptop and the hardwired cable vLinker FS. FORScan prohibits the use of any bluetooth device to make programme changes.

How are you pressurising the system to bleed it? I’ve always used an Ezi-bleed kit to do mine but got better feel at the pedal when the car had a fluid change as part of a service and bled the old school way with one chap pumping the pedal and another doing the bleed hose bit etc Quizzed them about it at last service and was advised the ezi-bleed systems can sometimes put air into the fliuid - though not enough to cause concern but pedal pumping process got better results

I made my own loom so I could guarantee it was right. I haven't seen anyone who bought one of those chinese looms say it was 100% plug and play. Your fault will possibly on the 8 pin plug which goes to the radio controls. On the Kuga the door lock switch is definitely a dummy as it has the door lock switch on the driver's door.

Some news from my side: Received a call from Ford Germany, they told me that they are aware about the issue and that they already have a solution. I should await an over the air update, scheduled about beginning of June, to get the issue fixed. We will see... Keep you posted.

Blocked oil filter ? When did it last have an oil change ?

You are welcome! Before getting the warranty, clarify the user error inputting the mileage with Ford. Since you have the official papers showing it was a clear human error they should fix it in their records. When it comes to a possible warranty covered repair they get pretty attentive to the details. In my case, I went to show them the oil leak and the first thing they did was to check the service history and mileage reading, and servicing plan for the car. Then they checked if I had extended warranty. Then they investigated the leak and at the end they said that it is covered by the warranty (both the repairs and the inspection) and so it was. But mistakes in the records can align and cause the warranty to be voided. Meanwhile enjoy the car!

Yeah, we've all got to stop jumping in on these OPWs😁

That's my thoughts re the previous owner too, I suppose I'll have to try it and see! I appreciate all your help, thank you.

Really?

You must have one of the poltergeist brands of relay. Just call ghost busters they'll soon have you sorted 🤣

You naughty boy!

Hi, For some reason the 1.5 is known to leak oil. I have been following a German forum and there were plenty of these engines with oil leaks. One thing you can do is to first clean/wipe all the oil you see and start monitoring. Find out where it comes from. Don't trust the dealer directly, because I have read that the first thing they point to on these engines is the timing cover, but it is not aways that and you shall pay for a job that doesn't get the leak fixed. Based on what I have found so far this engine had the following leakage sources: cam shafts cover seal, timing cover seal, head gasket. These are the ones that come up most often. So clean it, monitor it, try to find where it comes from (and if it is coming from the sealing of the timng cover or from the bolts of the timing cover), then take it to get it fixed.

I will be very honest I was in a rush to get somewhere and didn't really have the right kit for the job so was a long and arduous pain the neck of a job....and didn't fancy doing the other side. SHAME on me. I do need to check if it is the problem when I get chance after work. @Bar72 I shall check for corrosion and see if it has broken through but I did have a look earlier and both ARB droplinks looked good and secure.