Wayney Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 OK... Fingers crossed! Picked up the car, he said he had it running for over an hour and the light hadnt come on. He replaced the O Rings and cleaned the strainer? in the sump (something like that). I've just taken it out for about 40 mins, and the light has not come on... so hopefully its all done! Only cost me another £120!! lol but cheaper than a new pump :) thanks to everyone for advice & help :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy H Dibley Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Did he change the oil at the same time? If not would be very much worth oil+filter+engine flush! Whatever may have been causing the issue could still be floating around. Touch wood though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezwez Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 good to hear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 good result :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayney Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 yep, did oil and filter change and engine flush! Went to Brighton and back today with no issues at all, Will be doing 250 miles on Monday and again on Tuesday, so that will be a good test lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 Well here's hoping you can finally enjoy the car and get plenty hassle free miles for your business :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Sorry to bring an old post back to life but I have a very similar problem on my TDdi. Mine is fine when cold and flickers the light when it is idling after it heats up. I was about to change my pump and I notice mention of O rings. Are these the O rings on the plastic pipes that go from the strainer to the pump and the outlet pipe from the pump? If so I might drop the sump of again because warm oil is thinner and may be getting past worn O rings and bleeding the pressure away. Thanks all. P.S. I have changed the pressure switch and done 2 oil and filter changes and an engine flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 I dropped the sump off and found a loose screw that fixes the oil pick up pipe into the back of the oil pump. It is moving all over the place and I bet the rubber O ring is worn out but I can't see how to get to the screw. Below are 2 pictures with the screw circled in red. The first is with the crank case on, you can see it but you can't get a tool on it and the second is with the crank case removed, it is a 2 second job to take the screw out then but the crankcase has fixings inside the gearbox and I really don't want to drop the gearbox if I don't really have to. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuga Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Hi MarkC Did you solve the problem? My car has the same symptoms: The oil pressure light flickers, when it is idling after it heats up. I changed the oil pressure sensor and now the light is always on at idling. Interestingly the light flickers only after I change the oil and the filter. The current oil is 5w30, but the former was 10w40, I guess. I don't know if there is any relationship. Can you tell me something? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Ford don't use 10w 40 always 5w oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuga Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Ford don't use 10w 40 always 5w oil Yes, I know that. That's why I changed to 5w30. The mechanic told me that he realized that the previous owner used the 5W40. At this point I think he did it to "trick" the pressure sensor, because the oil was more thick. It's a common practice, here, when the engines already have some mileage ( my car has already 225.000km ), to compensate for wear and gaps that exist in the engine. I do not agree with that, because I think the engine should work with the specifications that were prepared. But it's a fact that the problems started after switching to a thinner oil. At the moment the oil is also passing through the valve cover gasket breather. That's why I need MarkC information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worthy92 Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 Hi I know this is an old thread but I have 2013 ford focus economist turbo ive had a flickering oil warning light when acceleration and now it's staying on ive took it to 3 garages so far and they are all telling me it needs a whole new engine right now its still in the garage but I don't know what to do ive had it since Nov 2020 it still has warranty on it until Aug 2021 but warranty won't cover any repairs till it gets diagnosed with whats bring the light on it had an mot on the day it was brought it also had a health check done on it a week later all came back from but a broken spring tracker rod end gone and coolant bottle had a crack in it and the brake oil was red but im Lost to do with engines ive always had older cars never new so any help would be greatly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlawes20389 Posted June 25, 2021 Share Posted June 25, 2021 You'll be best starting your own thread as this one is quite some years old but if its the 1.0 ecoboost, it could possibly be the oil pump strainer being blocked. I cleaned the oil pump in my one recently and it was clogged up, getting to it was not a small task. If the light has been flickering for some time now it is possible that the engine is damaged due to oil starvation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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