I did stop when the person in front did so abruptly yet I'm being told I'm too close.

The point here is that yes you did stop - just in time, but the situation enraged you sufficiently to post a video - had you been further back then you would have been less likely to '' slam on the brakes '' & less enraged about what was happening ahead, I've watched the video many times & it's still a mystery as to what the silver car was attempting to do

For instance I think everyone when they're approaching red light and / or a queue of traffic will brake earlier to slow down gradually , that's more where stopping distances come jn

The silver car carried on up the road as did the red one in front

The silver car carried on up the road

Did you ever find out why it stopped where it did ?

No idea tbh, it took a right at the end if the road whereas me and the red car turned left

No idea tbh

Weird one then - shame it's not more visual from the video

That's why I agreed with the potential crash for cash as she (red car) did it again further up the road. I need to get hubby to upload that one too provided he didn't wipe the disk

The red car was stupidly close to the silver one that initially caused the problem

It's annoying the video cut there tbh I think he's now set it so there's an overlap should it happen again. Touch wood though it doesn't

Interesting footage though Laurie - i think I'll invest in one

I want to get a dashcam for mine, but still haven't worked out the best way of wiring it in.

I don't really want to start pulling panels off on my car yet...

I got the pros to do my wiring in when they fitted my sub, they did it for £30, yes it would be tons cheaper to do it myself but I don't plan like you on going and willy-nilly pulling off panels in my car

I want to get a dashcam for mine, but still haven't worked out the best way or wiring it in.

I don't really want to start pulling panels off on my car yet...

Nor me - nor do i want cabling visble

I've got about 4" of cable visible in mine, that's just where it comes out of the headlining and into the cam :)

Any car audio specialist should be able to fit it for you :)

Dad got the pros to install the Blackvue in the RR. AFAIK they removed the headlining to hide the wiring and then hard wired it into the fuse box. They did an excellent job though, looked like it had been fitted from the factory.

That car has gone now though so when the new one comes it will be sent to them to do it again!

I want to get a dashcam for mine, but still haven't worked out the best way of wiring it in.

I don't really want to start pulling panels off on my car yet...

There are wifi Dashcam systems. The one I've got Lukas 9750HD has a wireless cousin 7950HD, if you don't want to pull panels off yet.

Oh and to add to my previous post...as it was hardwired the camera would only get power when ignition was on. The one we have has a motion sensor and will turn on when in "park mode" if someone hits the car. They are good to invest in, gives you much more chance of prooving you were not at fault in an accident should you need to. I'll be getting one for my car!

Oh and to add to my previous post...as it was hardwired the camera would only get power when ignition was on. The one we have has a motion sensor and will turn on when in "park mode" if someone hits the car. They are good to invest in, gives you much more chance of prooving you were not at fault in an accident should you need to. I'll be getting one for my car!

Has your Dads system got a UPS, so that parking mode would never be in a position where it could flatten your starter battery, if you leave it parked for an extended time?

The issue is that I actually trust myself more than the pros to pull interior panels off. But from past experience they never fit the same and you are asking for a rattle to develop.

I might run it up the door seal or something. Unless there is a power feed I can use behind the overhead console. I'd want my dealer to tap in to it though for warranty reasons.

So many ways of doing it but none I'm 100% happy with yet...

It will be about 10 at 70mph.

And don't forget stopping and following distances are two different things :)

The 2 second rule equates to a minimum of 14 average car lengths @ 70 m.p.h. in the dry

One car length for every 5 m.p.h. of roadspeed - 14 x 5 = 70

There's a scary difference between 10 & 14 car lengths - especially if you're trying to stop :)

I agree that the 2 second rule & stopping distances are different :)

The issue is that I actually trust myself more than the pros to pull interior panels off. But from past experience they never fit the same and you are asking for a rattle to develop.

I might run it up the door seal or something. Unless there is a power feed I can use behind the overhead console. I'd want my dealer to tap in to it though for warranty reasons.

So many ways of doing it but none I'm 100% happy with yet...

Insurers approved bodyshops are notorious for that.

My Mum's Mk1 was returned with poorly fitted panels and rather rattly too, not to mention several missing trim plugs!

Has your Dads system got a UPS, so that parking mode would never be in a position where it could flatten your starter battery, if you leave it parked for an extended time?

I believe so, the car was left for over 3 weeks at a time before and never had a problem with the battery. More of a threat to the battery was the self levelling air suspension, that could flatten the battery after a while! Putting the suspension into 'lock' mode solved that problem though.

No rattles caused by fitting the dash cam with us.

I want to get a dashcam for mine, but still haven't worked out the best way of wiring it in.

I don't really want to start pulling panels off on my car yet...

Mine is wired down the passenger side A pillar.

You don't need to pull any panels at all.

Just pull the door seal out up to the top of the frame and tuck the wires behind the pillar trim that way.

There is a small gap between the upper and lower dash trims that you can hook the wiring between.

Simple to run the wires to the fusebox from there and you can either use the original power plug and a fusetapped 12v socket (which I make) or a hardwire kit (still need a fusetap though).

Takes about 10 minutes to fit.

There is a metal ridge behind the leading edge of the roof just above the headliner which the cable tucks behind quite nicely.

Mine is wired down the passenger side A pillar.

You don't need to pull any panels at all.

Just pull the door seal out up to the top of the frame and tuck the wires behind the pillar trim that way.

There is a small gap between the upper and lower dash trims that you can hook the wiring between.

Simple to run the wires to the fusebox from there and you can either use the original power plug and a fusetapped 12v socket (which I make) or a hardwire kit (still need a fusetap though).

Takes about 10 minutes to fit.

There is a metal ridge behind the leading edge of the roof just above the headliner which the cable tucks behind quite nicely.

Using this method - would it be easy to transfer the camera between 2 different vehicles - with the hard wiring present in each vehicle ?

Just pull the mini usb out of the camera and away you go.

Absolute doddle.