Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

[Adam Elks]

Hi guys, I have an issue with my Ford Focus mk2 diesel. Central locking won’t work with fob or switch on the door. I’ve checked fuses, is there anything else I can do to check. It’s also not throwing any codes when I scan it 

[Tdci-Peter]

On 6/25/2021 at 2:33 PM, Adam Elks said:

Central locking won’t work with fob or switch on the door. I’ve checked fuses, is there anything else I can do to check.

Have you checked F3 & F4 in the engine bay fuse box? These supply the GEM (AKA BCM or Pass. Fuse box). But as a lot of other functions will also fail if either of these fails, it is unlikely.

Check all lock switches & all window switches on all doors including tailgate. To go further you would need to say if it had 4 electric windows (with Front door electronic modules on the MS CAN bus), or just front electric windows (direct GEM control of locking). These two systems are completely different.

[ts01]

Hi  friends  kiss  to all,sory four my bad english...

I have focus mk2,2009  110hp  dpf   version i have problem,car  works great starts  100/100times    ,no fault codes finde  on forscan,i start engine and drive 1-2km engine cutOff by itself :no worning lights,no check engine on  no  write on display  engine mulfunction   just die  all instrument panel  lighti, just goo  off  key then  starts ON   and you can drive 100km  no problem,next day the same.....

Ford service  is my friend,i whent 2 times no problems:no fuel leaking, fuel pressure ok no oscilations ,dpf i softwear off, only some times stearing angle senzor fault  but erase itself....

Any  ideas.....?i   read  a lot over  intetnet...

Full service  made  befour 4000km all  filters oil ford formula5/30

Don,t now  where.to start...

Pats key.?Ect  sensor.?Egr.?? Crank sensor.?

Edited July 3, 2021 by ts01
Inprovment

[Heleas03]

On 10/11/2013 at 9:31 PM, artscot79 said:

displays which stay on for long periods such as overnight usually have pcm issues which bbereman can repair cheap.

Mine has this issue but not always. By the way what do you mean bberman can repair? Sorry I’m not native.

[Tdci-Peter]

On 7/6/2021 at 5:45 AM, Heleas03 said:

what do you mean bberman can repair?

I am pretty certain that Arthur meant BBA Reman:

http://www.bba-reman.com/gb/content/latest_products_offered_by_bba_reman

[LeeMarshall99]

Hi,

 

I have a 60 plate Mk2 facelift 1.6 petrol focus and bought it and the power steering pump was knackered so got brand new power steering pump and hose put on a month ago, then just short of 2 weeks ago one of the O rings had broke so had to get new O rings and get them fitted and it has just started whining again when turning the steering wheel and I’m getting sick of it. What could it be??

 

T.I.A 

[unofix]

16 hours ago, LeeMarshall99 said:

brand new power steering pump

not being funny but was the power steering pump a brand new genuine Ford unit or was it a brand new 'fully refurbished' unit ?

I only ask as a few years ago I fitted a fully refurnished unit to a fiesta, and less than two weeks later it was whining almost as loud as the woke brigade 🤣

I had to buy a new Ford unit at 3 times the price and do the job again.

[LeeMarshall99]

7 hours ago, unofix said:

not being funny but was the power steering pump a brand new genuine Ford unit or was it a brand new 'fully refurbished' unit ?

I only ask as a few years ago I fitted a fully refurnished unit to a fiesta, and less than two weeks later it was whining almost as loud as the woke brigade 🤣

I had to buy a new Ford unit at 3 times the price and do the job again.

It was a brand new genuine one from Bullseye, my uncle fitted it for me last month and it had a brand new hose too and it’s been fine up until 2 weeks ago 🙄

[unofix]

13 hours ago, LeeMarshall99 said:

brand new genuine one from Bullseye,

Hi Lee just tried to find the steering pump on Bullseye but they are not showing anything for your car. That said, I see the parts they mostly sell are just generic and not OEM, so I would think your new steering pump is not what would be sold by Ford.

My thoughts are you probably have a faulty new steering pump, which does happen. Did you replace all the steering fluid when you fitted the new pump ?

[LeeMarshall99]

7 hours ago, unofix said:

Hi Lee just tried to find the steering pump on Bullseye but they are not showing anything for your car. That said, I see the parts they mostly sell are just generic and not OEM, so I would think your new steering pump is not what would be sold by Ford.

My thoughts are you probably have a faulty new steering pump, which does happen. Did you replace all the steering fluid when you fitted the new pump ?

They don’t always show everything online but it was bought from the bullseye shop for around £120 I believe and yes as I say it had brand new pump and hose so obviously had to replace all the fluid which was fine until O rings bust 2 weeks ago but I have bought the exact same fluid and have replaced O rings (genuine Ford ones from the Ford store at Rotherham) and it is still slightly leaking and whining. 

[unofix]

1 hour ago, LeeMarshall99 said:

and it is still slightly leaking and whining. 

Ok that makes sence. The leak is probably just one of those things, the O rings can be a pain to fit and sometimes don't sit right and you get a slight leak. The whining maybe caused by air trapped in the steering rack. Jack the car up and put in on axel stands so that both front wheels are off the ground. Start the engine and turn the steering slowly from full left lock to full right lock at least a half dozen times. Any air trapped should make its way out of the rack.

[Coollady]

Hi folks .

my partners Ford Focus Mk2 , Tdci 1.6 diesel is showing these lights recently 😬

Engine management light & A.B.S & skippy road lights are coming on.

Engine management comes in regularly, the others seem to come up when going up through the gears especially 5th gear. 
 

Anyone else got this, is it easy fix or 🙁

[unofix]

3 hours ago, Coollady said:

Anyone else got this, is it easy fix

Never an easy fix.

Use Forscan and read the DTC's which will then tell you the faults, One thing, it will fail an MOT,

I would guess that at least one ABS sensor is faulty.

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, Coollady said:

Engine management light & A.B.S & skippy road lights are coming on.

There are literally hundreds of reasons for the Engine Management light to come on. A bit less for the ABS & ESP lights, but still far too many to guess.

I am 100% with Unofix on using Forscan to read the codes (DTCs), lots of info about it on this site, or just ask here.

It could end up being an easy fix, but without more info it is impossible to say. Hard fixes are more common than easy fixes! It is a law of nature.

Faulty ABS sensor would stack up with the lights, but just from the lights, I would not like to guess a cause. You do need the DTC's.

[AlwaysTrouble68]

Hi all.

Turbo leaks common?

What's the solution guys

182k miles and still pulls really well but a bit worried about the leak. ???

[Tdci-Peter]

4 minutes ago, AlwaysTrouble68 said:

Turbo leaks common?

What's the solution guys

182k miles and still pulls really well but a bit worried about the leak.

If you mean the air hoses from turbo to inlet manifold, then yes, leaks are very common.

Usually it is a split rubber hose, but plastic pipe parts (eg near the turbo on the 1.6TDCI) or metal pipes (on the 1.8TDCI) can also fail.

The diagnosis is usually easy, just listen for a new hissing or whooshing noise that only starts at larger throttle openings, and eases off as soon as the throttle is closed. Normally the leak can be heard (if you are alert to it) long before it seriously affects performance or causes any error codes.

Fixing is relatively easy & cheap, though some of the hoses can be a bit of a pig to replace. The one up from the intercooler outlet on my 1.8 was a beast, but taking off a few bits, and persistence, got it done.

As a preemptive operation, you can routinely have a good feel around the ends of the hoses, eg when servicing with the air filter and a few other bits removed for access. They always seem to go in the least visible places, obeying that well known universal law! Also look out for oil spatter. There is always some oil in the intake ducts, due to the crankcase vent system, and a little oil makes a lot of mess.

[m619ster]

Hello!

 

I have a problem with mk2.5 1.6 tdci 66kw Focus. Lately engine has started stuttering after starting the engine on colder mornings and when finishing shorter trips. A few times engine have cut off while slowing down, for example when coming from the road and turning into parking lot or stoping before traffic lights. Stuttering has happened few times also when driving, feels like it getting air to the fuel line, lost power for few seconds, rpm went down and then went back normal. I also captured the moment with forscan but not sure what to conclude from it:

purple (FP) - fuel pump

yellow - fuel rail pressure

green  - rpm

 

Here is also one forscan capture when engine started stuttering at idle:

first rpm line is desired idle rpm and second is actual engine rpm. yellow is fuel pump and behind it is fuel rail pressure. Red and green at the bottom are desired fuel mass and volume.

I have changed fuel filter ~10 000km ago. Only DTC I found after it first happened was and  P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance. Erased it and it has not come back but the stuttering still happens.

[Tdci-Peter]

4 hours ago, m619ster said:

Lately engine has started stuttering after starting the engine on colder mornings and when finishing shorter trips. A few times engine have cut off while slowing down, for example when coming from the road and turning into parking lot or stoping before traffic lights. Stuttering has happened few times also when driving, feels like it getting air to the fuel line, lost power for few seconds, rpm went down and then went back normal.

With no fuel pressure related DTCs, I would put throttle valve top of my suspect list, followed by EGR. The Duty cycle for these valves can be monitored, as can the valve position, I think. A jump in duty that does not have a matching change in position would show a problem.

You are logging too many channels at once for me to be able to read the Forscan graphs, I find 6 to 8 is about the max. Though if you upload the .FSL or .CSV files that Forscan saves, I might be able to read them, as I can filter out unwanted channels. (They might have to be re-named as .TXT files to upload.) APP (unless at idle), RPM, MAF, TV_DC (or similar name), TV position & same for EGR would be a good test.

[m619ster]

Thanks!

I attached log file of the first picture.

test.txt

 

 

 

 

[Madnige]

Hi sorry to jump onto this post but i think mines doing the same. Nipped to supermarket yesterday all good, came back out and started up fine, made a quick phone call and after a couple of minutes idleing she cut out and wouldnt restart. got green flag out who plugged it in and said fuel pump was only reading "6" (Now might add here i dont know 6 what, weather it be bar or something else) fuel rail reading 420kPa. Seemed like he was rushing to tow it somewhere so i just got him to bring it home. Thing is surely if the car wasnt running the fuel pump wont be doing anything anyway. So today ive changed the fuel filter and bled it through jumped in turned her over and after 15 seconds or so she fired up. Great problem solved, Think again ya big lumax, cut out again wont start up. iIm thinking maybe i havent got all the air out so try again. Draw a bit of air through the filter and she starts up again and keeps running when I have a few revs on with the odd splutter but at idle cuts out again, Priming pump back out, more air out of the filter start up again. No sign of a leak, tank showing between quarter and half full, Any help much appreciated.

[Tdci-Peter]

9 hours ago, m619ster said:

I attached log file of the first picture.

I have had a quick look at the data, but I don't really know what TPMODE is. I have a feeling it just shows closed, part open (PT) and open, so is not very informative. Are there any other entries for the throttle, I seem to recall seeing EGR_THRTL or some such odd name.

It certainly looks like something is holding the air flow back. The EGR valve shuts as the APP rises, which is correct. But the MAF lags, and actually falls, as I might expect from a jammed throttle valve. Then it suddenly seems to free up and the MAF rises, along with the RPM. So more info on that throttle valve would be very helpful.

The Fuel rail pressure certainly seems to shoot up nicely to >1500Bar (150,000kPa), so it is not the pump, and not really likely to be injectors.

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, Madnige said:

plugged it in and said fuel pump was only reading "6" (Now might add here i dont know 6 what, weather it be bar or something else) fuel rail reading 420kPa.

If the reading was taken while cranking, then it is valid but very low.

It should get up to about 200Bar (20,000kPa) before it will try to fire up. The 6 may be the IMV duty cycle, called FP in the data from m619ster, and 6% seems about right for max fuel. The IMV controls the amount of fuel going into the pump. So that would be consistent with air getting into the fuel system. Any leaks in the pipes from tank to main pump will allow air in, not fuel out, as they are normally under suction.

As it was done in a bit of a rush by the sound of it, the test needs repeating. I recommend Forscan as still being the best system for Fords.

As this seems to be a different problem to the main thread, starting a separate topic might be a good idea. Post a cross link on this thread if you wish.

[m619ster]

On 11/2/2021 at 1:39 AM, Tdci-Peter said:

I have had a quick look at the data, but I don't really know what TPMODE is. I have a feeling it just shows closed, part open (PT) and open, so is not very informative. Are there any other entries for the throttle, I seem to recall seeing EGR_THRTL or some such odd name.

It certainly looks like something is holding the air flow back. The EGR valve shuts as the APP rises, which is correct. But the MAF lags, and actually falls, as I might expect from a jammed throttle valve. Then it suddenly seems to free up and the MAF rises, along with the RPM. So more info on that throttle valve would be very helpful.

The Fuel rail pressure certainly seems to shoot up nicely to >1500Bar (150,000kPa), so it is not the pump, and not really likely to be injectors.

I did a short test drive today and recorded egr throttle valve and egr recirculation valve positions. Did not get any stuttering but the overall performance seemed poor. At first their values did not change at all. When I reached back from this very short trip the values started changing. Saved the data and started a new recording on idle and the values again kept the same all the time, only EGR recirculaton valve position started doing little peaks from 0% to 0.16% at some point but for me it seems that it's just some noise?  Shouldn't the throttle valve open every time I push the accelerator pedal?

test drive 1 (cold engine) - Copy.txt idle test.txt

idle test.txt

[Tdci-Peter]

On 11/6/2021 at 9:16 AM, m619ster said:

only EGR recirculaton valve position started doing little peaks from 0% to 0.16% at some point but for me it seems that it's just some noise?  Shouldn't the throttle valve open every time I push the accelerator pedal?

Yes, the little peaks are noise, the readings are 0% and 0.16%. There is no action from either the EGR or the Throttle valve on the idle test. Which is a bit odd, I assume the engine was warmish by then?

At the end of the drive test, when it is idling at 800rpm, the EGR is sitting at 80%, which is quite reasonable to me.

The throttle valve does not control engine power at all, it is used in conjunction with the EGR valve to boost EGR flow. I can see this in the drive test, once the EGR valve gets about full open, the throttle starts to close to get more flow. The inlet manifold needs to be at a lower pressure than the exhaust manifold to draw air through the EGR system, and closing the throttle a bit drops the pressure in the inlet manifold.

At the start of the run there is no action on the EGR. This is normal, with a cold engine max oxygen is wanted, as the problem is soot production, not NOx. But it does seem quite a long time before the EGR comes into use. On my car it is usually within a minute or so. But that is a different engine, of course.

I have to read the throttle as 1% is full open, and higher values are closing. It makes no sense otherwise.

If you do another run, the MAP would help, with the engine at operating temperature, so the EGR should be working. And a route where you can hold it steady near full power for several seconds, like a nice uphill dual carriageway. It is easier to interpret readings if the rpm & App are held constant for a bit so it can settle to a steady state, at various power levels from very light cruising to full throttle.

[Jurpp]

Hi. I bought a MK2 -05 Focus and noticed a minor issue with that the radio keeps resetting the clock. The strange thing is that the time is saved with the engine ON. When the car is turned off, it'll display --:-- or some completely random time.

However, and it's a bit hard to explain, but for example if I set the time to 18:00 when the engine is ON, drive for half an hour so the clock now reads 18:30, turn the car off, return to the car the next morning, start it up and the clock will continue from that 18:30 last day when I turned off the car, and so on. battery is new so it can't be that.