Spikecast Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Hi, Mrs was driving home this evening and the orange engine management light was stuck on (lit orange). I've phoned my local garage but he can't look at it until monday. I can access the test menu in the car is that likely to tell me the fault code? If so where do I look? He seems to think it could be a sensor. Car is running absolutely fine, checked oil/coolant levels both spot on and engine appears to be ticking over as normal. I'm worried about driving it but I need to get to work tomorrow. For info I have had the recall checked relating the coolant but mine didn't require it (or it had been done prior to purchase). It's a 2012 1.0 125 ecoboost. Any help would be appreciated. Many thanks. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 well to help we would require the dtc codes given theres 50 plus sensors it could be anything the test menu may give you a dtc which gives a rough idea as to what it could be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 Hi, I'm totally new to the DTC codes etc, can you advise if it starts with "DTC" ? I can access the menu and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 Found the codes: DTC #01 C232_00 DTC#02 C233_00 DTC#03 C53B_81 Any help would be great, if its something that makes it drivable then thats some good news lol. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 I can find no record of any of those codes I believe they are engineer codes and not actual dtcs so I'm afraid I'm not much help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_60 Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 OP has asked same question on overclockers.co.uk/life/motors No answer there too Best to disconnect the battery. leave it for half an hour reconnect. take car for a drive to recalibrate ecu and then check for DTC codes again Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Thanks mate, I'm getting it onto a diagnostic machine at garage later today who won't charge me a penny to check the fault. I will report back with their findings. :) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Got it to garage today (one of three I tend to use) and they hooked it up, came up with a fault on one of the sensors which he suspects is down to dodgy fuel. He said they are sensitive to it and if it detects anything the warning light pops on. Advised to me to keep an eye on it but nothing to worry about at present, light has been removed and it hasn't popped up after an good run back home. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_60 Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Hi Nick Dodgy Fuel ? Does the 1.0 GTDI have a Fuel Filter ? Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btmaldon Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Had this a few times now. Friends have filled their cars up and the light has come on. Not just Fords. I've cleared the codes and they never came back. You only really need to be concerned when the light starts flashing. Then you must stop the car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Maybe I spoke to soon, left the car for a few hours and started up, light has returned. Looks like back to the garage Monday morning :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btmaldon Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Sounds like a Lambda or NOX Sensor is on its way out. It wont affect the running or the emissions but gets on your nerves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Thanks mate I'm just hoping it's something simple like that. Any idea what they would cost to replace inc labour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 on a 12 plate car ide be surprised if its a sensor so soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Just rang the garage and he said the fault was showing lambda sensor. He's going to take a look at the car monday and run some further tests he said it could be anything from the sensor/dodgy wire/spark plug misfiring or bad fuel. Regarding the sensor, would people advise I replace it with a ford part or would Bosch etc be okay if it ends up being the part at fault? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 What engine is your focus? If it is the 1.0 then its not unknown to have the upstream lambda sensor fail. If it is that sensor, then its going to need replacing soon. It is a wideband lambda sensor and is critical in correct fueling not just for economy but to prevent engine damage under high load Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Hi yeah it's the 1.0 ecoboost. What am I looking at cost wise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 No idea on cost of the sensor, should imagine it's a Ford only supply, easy enough to replace as it's right in front as you look at engine, 5 mins to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Thanks, I will report back on monday once I've been to the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 This is the fault: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Left it with garage to replace. Ford weren't interested even though I only bought the car in May. Wanted £85 just to diagnose the fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp999 Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 You only have 6 months to have things rectified on a used car and as yours is over 3 years old the manufacturer warranty has expired. At least you now know what it is and can get it sorted :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spikecast Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Yeah, I just feel aggrieved that I've not even had a it a year from when they sold me it. Left it with my garage to sort so I will report back, I assume that diagnostic is pretty accurate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Upstream wideband sensor at fault then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 All the garage needs to do is check the resistance of the heater circuit in sensor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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