Things I Don't Like

[Phil21185]

Things I don't like: reading through 290 odd pages of funny hatred but realising it's 2 hours past when I really should be sleeping or I will be craaaaaaanky! 

Also, autocorrelation.

I mean autocorrelatime. 

Ffs....well just proves my point. 

[Phil21185]

6 minutes ago, Phil21185 said:

 

I mean autocorrelatime. 

 

Seriously Samsung? You squeeze more computing power than people shot themselves at the moon with into a chip the size of my mother in law's heart but you think autocorrelatime is a real sodding word?

Added to ze list...

 

 

Don't tell him, Pike!

[Guest]

To jonro2009. Here's how to add a photo to a post using the forum app.
In the blue border at the top you should see 3 vertical dots yes?
Touch it then a drop down menu appears. Touch Reply and a new screen appears. Top of that is a blue border. Touch the 3 dots and you'll see an option to Add Picture.
Hey presto.
Add your photos (so longs as they're in your phone/tablet) and add your text and there you go. It takes about 5 seconds to do.
Enjoy.

[Jonro2009]

I hope this picture upload has worked, if it has then I think it should speak volumes!

I'm pretty sue I have tried that before but it didn't work, perhaps I did it wrong though, in fact I probably did! I've just had to go through my pics and find one that is 'forum friendly' lol.

Cheers pal [emoji846]


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[Jonro2009]

So @tazzman600 as you can see it has worked perfectly! I did it slightly different, I pressed the small '+' sign at bottom left and then I pressed the picture icon along the bottom of the text box. I can't believe I have been doing it via Photobucket all this time, I used to hate it! The app just got better, I'm like a boy with two k**bs lol thank you!!!


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[Turvey]

I don't like having to go back to work tomorrow after a week off 😟

[Guest]

No probs jonro. Glad I could help [emoji5]

[Guest]

:-)

[Jonro2009]

I don't like that my first attempt at soldering went worse that trying to clean the teeth of a great white! I 'tinned' the tip which was nice and easy (shocking I know) but when it came to getting the solder to join the wires together I was 'SOL'. It's back to YouTube I think ☹️


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[GMX]

Now where do I start?

I've gathered a few don't likes this evening in quite quick succession.

Every time over the past few days I've gone to start the Mk2's annual service, pre-MOT check and perhaps fit a few of my ever growing pile of mods: the forecasted but not for now rain falls! Tonight was sunny and cloudless: so I commenced

Having replaced the seized rear wiper motor and repaired the newly discovered chafed heated windscreen cable at the back and replaced the air filter under the bonnet.  I shut the bonnet, so I could see to drive up my ramps and do all the fluid changes.

It was at this exact moment that the bowden cable from the lock to the latch decided that was that; and it would never work again  From close to 180° of normal movement, my key would scarcely turn 10° either left or right, even when gripping the blade with molegrips for leverage!  There was also a considerable grating gritty sound coming from the white plastic end.

Having had a seized latch a couple of months ago, I knew the only way in was to remove the grill.  All my long screwdrivers are too girthsome to slip in between the grill and force the white plastic part inwards to assist the key.  However, I did discover from the seized latch episode, that if you push out the pin part of the rivets from underneath and free the top, then using a couple of hook shaped tools (brake spring or exhaust hanger removal tool) on the bottom: you can free the grill without damaging it. Once I got it off, it was apparent that the white plastic part had 2 great cracks in it and had some sort of internal jam in the mechanism.

Having finally opened the bonnet, and drained the old oil,  I went to get my oil hand pump ( a plastic thing from Machine Mart) to remove the required 5.6L.  Whatever it's made from it is clearly not UV stable after a year: it disintegrated as i was ***** into the drum!  Not to worry I thought, I have a big 5L litre jug for mixing antifreeze, I'l use that. Only I seem to have misplaced it: it wasn't where it should be, next to the antifreeze.  A thorough search of the garage, various sheds and even the house: yielded no jug  I then looked on Screwfix's web site for a replacement, nobody remotely local had one in stock, I think the nearest was in Kent!  So the oil will have to wait until I get either a new jug or a hand pump tomorrow.

I then decided to replace the glow plugs. Firstly, the space around plug no.3 and the fuel distributor was too tight to get my glow plug socket in. Well the socket would fit but was impeded by it's knuckle and it was only possible to get it a quarter of the way out; I'm not sure why Laser made the knuckle so big  A regular deep socket wasn't long enough, i ended up having to use a long toilet fitting box spanner.  That more an irksome thing rather a general dislike.

It was whilst manipulating plug no.4 that the actual don't like occurred.  Plug no.4 just wouldn't budge, I couldn't start the engine to warm it up a bit and in theory break the seize, as I now had no lubricant.  It's siblings all cracked open with ease but it just didn't move.  I was using a ¼" drive wrench, so I "upgraded" to a longer more torquey ½" wench, this certainly broke the seize, rather too suddenly as it turned out  As it spun round, it caught the spigot on the plastic thermostat housing and broke it  Hello coolant leak!

Just finish the dislike's off, I have just cracked a wisdom tooth on granite-like brazil nut

 

 

 

[Micro]

15 hours ago, Jonro2009 said:

I don't like that my first attempt at soldering went worse that trying to clean the teeth of a great white! I 'tinned' the tip which was nice and easy (shocking I know) but when it came to getting the solder to join the wires together I was 'SOL'. It's back to YouTube I think ☹️


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 Are you using a temp controlled iron, or one of the mains sticks?

Tin the tip, and wipe any massive excess off (you need a little to transfer heat effectively). Gently twist, or intertwine the wires (you can just solder side by side if you prefer, but you need them to be held by something), hold the iron onto the wires and let the heat get into the wire - feed a little solder into the iron side, then feed solder into the actual wire not onto the iron. It should take quite well.

Due to the ROHS legislation you probably have lead-free solder, which takes more heat to melt. If you can get hold of some 60/40 leaded solder I would recommend it, it's much easier and more pleasant to work with, just wash your hands afterwards!

[alexp999]

On 27/07/2017 at 4:30 AM, Jonro2009 said:

Not being able to post a photo uploaded to photobucket like I use to.

Tonight I tried to post a photo using in image from photobucket as I always do, copied the Image URL and posted it in the comment only for it to show up as a stock image from said site. The image said I couldn't do what they call '3rd party sharing' unless I upgraded my account. Has anyone had this problem? If possible could someone try and post a pic using a picture from photobucket please.





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Photobucket have broken the internet, lol.

They've updated their terms so now you can't post images on other sites without paying to upgrade your account.

[alexp999]

16 hours ago, Jonro2009 said:

I don't like that my first attempt at soldering went worse that trying to clean the teeth of a great white! I 'tinned' the tip which was nice and easy (shocking I know) but when it came to getting the solder to join the wires together I was 'SOL'. It's back to YouTube I think ☹️


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Some cheap components seem to "solder-phobic". I do a bit of soldering for work, we had these cheap switches once that just would not take solder. Ended up melting the switch from persisting, lol.

[Tdci-Peter]

22 hours ago, Jonro2009 said:

but when it came to getting the solder to join the wires together I was 'SOL'.

Wires can often be hard to "wet" with solder. Especially older ones that are a bit tarnished or corroded. I always pre-tin wires: Just hold the iron up against the stripped end, and keep feeding little bits of cored solder into the zone between the tip and the wire, repeating as the smoke from the flux dies down. Moving the iron tip around a bit helps. It can take a minute or so, and quite a lot of solder, to tin obstinate wires. Then discard the excess solder.

Hint: Hold the wire in a vice or pliers (loosely, as the insulation will get very soft). Things that conduct electricity well also conduct heat very well..

If that still does not work, sand the bare wire with fine sandpaper, or use some active flux if you have it. But wash off any active flux after use, it can cause long term corrosion problems.

Once the wires are fully wetted with solder, they should solder together or to other components quite easily.

I have also had a lot of problems with switches, like Alex says, the switch base can turn to a mass of molten plastic before it tins properly. Stupid design to use thermoplastic mouldings on components to be soldered!

[Turvey]

22 hours ago, GMX said:

Now where do I start?

I've gathered a few don't likes this evening in quite quick succession.

Every time over the past few days I've gone to start the Mk2's annual service, pre-MOT check and perhaps fit a few of my ever growing pile of mods: the forecasted but not for now rain falls! Tonight was sunny and cloudless: so I commenced

Having replaced the seized rear wiper motor and repaired the newly discovered chafed heated windscreen cable at the back and replaced the air filter under the bonnet.  I shut the bonnet, so I could see to drive up my ramps and do all the fluid changes.

It was at this exact moment that the bowden cable from the lock to the latch decided that was that; and it would never work again  From close to 180° of normal movement, my key would scarcely turn 10° either left or right, even when gripping the blade with molegrips for leverage!  There was also a considerable grating gritty sound coming from the white plastic end.

Having had a seized latch a couple of months ago, I knew the only way in was to remove the grill.  All my long screwdrivers are too girthsome to slip in between the grill and force the white plastic part inwards to assist the key.  However, I did discover from the seized latch episode, that if you push out the pin part of the rivets from underneath and free the top, then using a couple of hook shaped tools (brake spring or exhaust hanger removal tool) on the bottom: you can free the grill without damaging it. Once I got it off, it was apparent that the white plastic part had 2 great cracks in it and had some sort of internal jam in the mechanism.

Having finally opened the bonnet, and drained the old oil,  I went to get my oil hand pump ( a plastic thing from Machine Mart) to remove the required 5.6L.  Whatever it's made from it is clearly not UV stable after a year: it disintegrated as i was ***** into the drum!  Not to worry I thought, I have a big 5L litre jug for mixing antifreeze, I'l use that. Only I seem to have misplaced it: it wasn't where it should be, next to the antifreeze.  A thorough search of the garage, various sheds and even the house: yielded no jug  I then looked on Screwfix's web site for a replacement, nobody remotely local had one in stock, I think the nearest was in Kent!  So the oil will have to wait until I get either a new jug or a hand pump tomorrow.

I then decided to replace the glow plugs. Firstly, the space around plug no.3 and the fuel distributor was too tight to get my glow plug socket in. Well the socket would fit but was impeded by it's knuckle and it was only possible to get it a quarter of the way out; I'm not sure why Laser made the knuckle so big  A regular deep socket wasn't long enough, i ended up having to use a long toilet fitting box spanner.  That more an irksome thing rather a general dislike.

It was whilst manipulating plug no.4 that the actual don't like occurred.  Plug no.4 just wouldn't budge, I couldn't start the engine to warm it up a bit and in theory break the seize, as I now had no lubricant.  It's siblings all cracked open with ease but it just didn't move.  I was using a ¼" drive wrench, so I "upgraded" to a longer more torquey ½" wench, this certainly broke the seize, rather too suddenly as it turned out  As it spun round, it caught the spigot on the plastic thermostat housing and broke it  Hello coolant leak!

Just finish the dislike's off, I have just cracked a wisdom tooth on granite-like brazil nut

 

 

 

A veritable comedy of errors! 😁

 

Hope today was better?

[Jonro2009]

Thank you very much chaps, I will have another go at it over the weekend. The wires were relatively new, one set was coming from an LED strip and the other was actually the rear of the positive and negative terminals on a PP3 9V battery clip. I don't think I'm explaining it very well so pic included for clarity. I was basically trying to put the wires on it myself as it wasn't pre made like the one shown. There was certainly some heat in the wires, I had hold of the insulated piece of the wire and the battery clip was being held in a crocodile clip on a flexi arm from the soldering iron stand. It is just a basic mains stick soldering iron with no variable heat setting. I really appreciate the advice, thanks.

EDIT forgot to say that I think I was touching the solder to the tip of the iron and it was certainly melting but didn't seem to be going anywhere.

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[Tdci-Peter]

2 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said:

The other was actually the rear of the positive and negative terminals on a PP3 9V battery clip.

I think those clips are now quite often stainless steel. And that will not solder at all well. It would need a special flux, and even then be tricky.

Nickel plating, or brass, or tin, or almost any copper alloy would be ok, but not stainless, chromium, or aluminium. The pre-made ones are now so cheap, I always keep a few handy. I used to re-use the ones off old batteries in the pre-internet days when buying little bits like that could be expensive or take several days.

[Jonro2009]

I'm not sure @alexp999 but I think images that have been previously shared via photobucket have disappeared as I have seen that graphic in a few places on older posts. I wonder how many people have paid to upgrade.


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[Jonro2009]

I think those clips are now quite often stainless steel. And that will not solder at all well. It would need a special flux, and even then be tricky.
Nickel plating, or brass, or tin, or almost any copper alloy would be ok, but not stainless, chromium, or aluminium. The pre-made ones are now so cheap, I always keep a few handy. I used to re-use the ones off old batteries in the pre-internet days when buying little bits like that could be expensive or take several days.

I didn't even think about different metals soldering well or not. If I'm honest the clip was complete and I butchered it because I wanted to have a go at soldering. I have some large lengths of wire left over from different projects so I think I will stick to cutting a few lengths and practising using that. Thanks for all this useful info it's very much appreciated.


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[Phil21185]

14 hours ago, Jonro2009 said:

 

I didn't even think about different metals soldering well or not. If I'm honest the clip was complete and I butchered it because I wanted to have a go at soldering. I have some large lengths of wire left over from different projects so I think I will stick to cutting a few lengths and practising using that. Thanks for all this useful info it's very much appreciated.


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I do a lot of fine soldering for work as I'm a pipe organ builder.  Some of the 1930's cotton-covered wires can be a b|tch to solder new wire onto but the key is ensuring that your two surfaces are as clean as possible.

 If the solder simply runs off the wire like water, you need to clean it.  Either with some fine sandpaper as suggested, or scrape it gently with a knife blade until the surface is shiny.  Apply flux paste if you have it and tin the wire just as you did with the soldering iron tip.  Avoid touching the wire before tinning as the oils and impurities on your fingers will send you back to square one.  Once you have both wires tinned, put your spool of solder down and simply touch one wire to the other while applying heat.  If done correctly, the solder will literally flow (quite satisfyingly) from one to the other.  Test the joint once cooled with a little tension and you should be good to go!

If you find you are melting your wire's insulation, there is too much heat going on there.  If you don't have access to a variable soldering iron (I swear by my Iroda Solderpro gas iron - totally controllable and no mains wire to annoy you) and you are planning on doing a lot of soldering, its worth rigging yourself up a socket on a board connected to a 240v dimmer switch.  You can control the juice going to your fixed soldering iron then.

Keep practising, it's a skill worth having!

 

EDIT:: Forgot to mention, don't bother with a wet sponge to clean your iron unless you want to be replacing tips every 5 minutes.  Get a brass solder sponge instead.  Pennies from the Bay of e.

 

[Jonro2009]

That's some really good advice and hints there @Phil21185 I will certainly try your suggestions, along with everyone else's advice. Thanks @Tdci-Peter and @alexp999 also, I'm sure I'll get the hang of it, probably lol. I might consider a dimmer switch, I didn't know I could do that to control the temperature so thanks.


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[Phil21185]

7 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said:

I might consider a dimmer switch, I didn't know I could do that to control the temperature so thanks.


 

We used this setup for pipe soldering which is 60/40 lead/tin or even higher lead content.  Too much power and you just melt straight through the pipe.  at upwards of £3k for a rank of pipes its not something you want to do.  Unfortunately Pipe irons are huge things that look like hatchets and don't have inbuilt controls.

Yeah, just a length of 3 core with a plug  one end wired to a dimmer switch, the output of which is wired to a standard socket.  All mounted on a bit of plywood.

[John_D]

18 hours ago, Jonro2009 said:

Thank you very much chaps, I will have another go at it over the weekend. The wires were relatively new, one set was coming from an LED strip and the other was actually the rear of the positive and negative terminals on a PP3 9V battery clip. I don't think I'm explaining it very well so pic included for clarity. I was basically trying to put the wires on it myself as it wasn't pre made like the one shown. There was certainly some heat in the wires, I had hold of the insulated piece of the wire and the battery clip was being held in a crocodile clip on a flexi arm from the soldering iron stand. It is just a basic mains stick soldering iron with no variable heat setting. I really appreciate the advice, thanks.

EDIT forgot to say that I think I was touching the solder to the tip of the iron and it was certainly melting but didn't seem to be going anywhere.

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Place the soldering iron under the wires you are soldering with the solder on top.  The molten solder will then run down into the wires.  make certain you have the correct tip on the iron, and don't overheat .... as is common  LOL.  BTW  RS Components sell 60/40 tin-lead solder.... Stcok number 555-235.

[GMX]

I don't like accidentally giving away Pipper's monthly supply of stinky sticks, only an hour after buying them 

In the dog show classes, Pipper is sponsoring on Sunday, we giving all the winners (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, Very High Commendations and High Commendations) a goody bag of treats, dog toys etc.  I meant to remove Pipper's 4 bags from the rest when I dropped them off at the rescue this afternoon.  I've only just realised I didn't take them out. 

 

19 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I think those clips are now quite often stainless steel. And that will not solder at all well. It would need a special flux, and even then be tricky.

I discovered when rebuilding the battery packs for one of my drills, that even with the correct flux, soldering stainless steel, is a pain.  Spot welding is better but you can't exactly weld a stainless steel tag to a lithium cell without explosive consequences

[GMX]

Today I particularly don't like  A351, from where it joins the A35 all the way to Wareham.  Pipper and I could've casually strolled faster: than it took to get to Wareham this afternoon: it was just bad coming back

I also don't like the chap with the huge US style motorhome who suddenly dived under his dash (I can only assume something fell of his dash and he forgot he was driving!)  heading straight at us, in one rural Dorset's narrowest lanes. My sudden braking and reversing out of the way, led to Pipper falling off the seat and then being slammed against the squab!