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An 06 Focus 1.6tdci Has A Dpf Doesn't It


Stu9
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Is yours the DV6 TED4 engine Ian & euro 4 ?

Edited by MONDEO TXS 2.2
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How would I know if an 06 would have it without seeing it again

there would be a small black box with wires feeding from it attached to the left side of the battery box,

16tdci_0_zpsjrz8gpws_edit_1442155030060_

Also the catalyst/dpf chamber fitted below the turbo at the front of the engine will have pipes feeding from it.

images_zps68levld0.jpg

Non dpf models

won't have the little module attached to side of battery box and only a catalyst will be fitted looking like this:

resized_80272_zpsmzjcet6m.jpg

Finally then 2009 onwards models had ceramic DPF's like mine was,

These don't have the module on the left side of the battery box but the chamber is long without pipes looks like this:

IMG_20130913_153107_zps9e71779e.jpg

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Also if the dial looks like this it definitely has one

😀😁😅😂😭

ford_focus_tdci_dpf_removal_southampton_

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What could be the reason for not all DV6 TED4 engines to have a dpf ?

I was under the impression from factual reports they all had them ?

Is yours U.K. spec & not a foreigner Ian ?

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What could be the reason for not all DV6 TED4 engines to have a dpf ?

I was under the impression from factual reports they all had them ?

Is yours U.K. spec & not a foreigner Ian ?

if the 1.6TDCi DV6 was a 90PS model (88bhp)

Then it didn't require a DPF

The difference between the 88bhp and 110bhp models were

1. Bosch injector size 90cc and 110cc

2. GT1544V turbo and Mitsubishi CP7 TD025 turbo

The 88bhp model can be remapped up to 125bhp but that's the most injectors can handle.

The Mitsubishi turbo is fixed size non variable vain capable of up to 130bhp

The Garrett 1544V is a variable vain turbo which fans act like a small turbo but expands internally under centrifugal force as speed increases catching more gasses resulting in bigger turbo overall idea is to eliminate excess boost aswell as reduced lag time.

The 88bhp model can be remapped via OBD port, the 110 must remove ECU to remap.

It Is possible to fit the Garrett turbo and 110 injectors to the 90ps model for performance up to 150bhp

can be taken higher by fitting a Focus ST stage 1 intercooler (straight swap)

K&N57s induction kit

2.5" exhaust

And Hybrid turbo (straight swap)

link: http://www.nbstyling.co.uk/store/?pID=59

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I'm suitably enlightened - thanks all :)

So the OP's 1.6 DV6 TED4 110bhp version must have a dpf - correct ?

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Ian's 90 bhp version has nothing to do with this thread then & is totally irrelevant, but does cause unnecessary confusion :angry:

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I'm suitably enlightened - thanks all :)

So the OP's 1.6 DV6 TED4 110bhp version must have a dpf - correct ?

yes

Mine was a 90ps stock aswell,

2008 onwards had ceramic dpf in the 90ps

I'm rolling 125bhp on stock turbo and injectors

110 injectors are straight swap but need to be coded to ECU

literally write down code printed on side of injector and type it in to computer attached to Ecu to allow communication.

I am tempted to go hybrid turbo and 110 injectors with remap but it's not worth the 4,000 euro investment to include stage 2 Kevlar clutch and labour fees

Can purchase a 2000 jap import 1.6 naturally aspirated yamaha tuned Toyota Levin BZR which is 175bhp for under 2000 and have way more fun as it's not your project car

I done that instead lol see the build:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/48340-snagglepuss-build-thread-lennys-new-whip/

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Ian's 90 bhp version has nothing to do with this thread then & is totally irrelevant, but does cause unnecessary confusion :angry:

Except without my confusion we wouldn't have had that long in depth definition from Lenny and we'd all be in the dark still!.... Also means I can hunt for an ST intercooler and other stuff now... ;)

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Ok, so ian's tuning his

I'm still wondering if I should go for it it and take the chance

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Why buy a known duffer ?

Insanity springs to mind :)

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Because it cheap

Forgot to say only 1 key and eml came on earlier but seemingly went out

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Ok, so ian's tuning his

I'm still wondering if I should go for it it and take the chance

I'm now off the theroy that;

If you know the faults and you also know ways of preventing them then it's only a matter of performing those actions.

I've blanked my egr in early days,

So I didn't need to flush out the carbon because it wouldn't be there.

Now in the case of this car,

I suggest you blanking the egr as per guide,

Followed by purchasing some cheap oil such as Halfords brand aswell as 5 litres of Castrol and a bottle or two of xado Total Flush as linked in the egr blanking guide.

Drain existing oil,

Close sump,

Pour in Xado Total Flush

Fill to specified oil level with Halfords oil

Driver car for around 15 miles,

Drain oil

Pour in remaining Halfords oil to flush out sump.

Fill up with Castrol

No more carbon getting in to the sump.

Next job is upgrade induction filter to allow for the greater demand of air since egr is blanked.

a Green Cotton induction filter or K&N will do nicely.

Finally find a place willing to cut open the dpf chamber on the factory weld; remove internal filter leaving some catalyst in place to baffle sound,

Weld up like factory spec and remap the Ecu.

Some prefer not to cut it open because the filter is much like acepestos never leaves the lungs this is why garages prefer to replace dpf with straight pipe but there are those whom wear respiratory equipment when operating on the chamber.

Last job is optional it's fitting an oil catch can to the crank case.

This prevents oil from contaminating the induction pipe aswell as filling up the intercooler with oil aswell.

If fitting one of these then it is worth removing and cleaning the intercooler and pipework afterwards as it will stay clean.

Guide blanking 1.6TDCi EGR valve

link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/42915-guide-fitting-egr-blanking-plate-16tdci-engine/

Guide upgrading 1.6TDCi induction filter

link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/36783-green-cotton-performance-induction-filter-fitting-guide/

Guide Fitting 1.6TDCi Custom oil catch tank

link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/74245-guide-fitting-oil-catch-tank-16tdci-ford-focus-mk2-mk25/

I'd like to add;

If a 1.6TDCi engine suffers a blown turbo,

The oil sump pan MUST be physically removed and cleaned as Well as the turbo oil feed pipe replaced because it is the caked up sump which has caused the turbo failure not the turbo itself.

A work college blew two turbos in one month last November due to garage who sold him the car purchasing it with blown turbo,

Garage replaced turbo and sold it to my work college with 6 months warranty

he drove it down the road after purchase and turbo blew.

The garage replaced again without changing turbo feed or sump pan and two weeks later it blew it's third turbo.

Due to insufficient oil making its way up the pipe to keep it lubricated due to carbon blocking the pipe like cholesterol

IMG_20150822_161857_zpsdummfj4z.jpg

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Because it cheap

Forgot to say only 1 key and eml came on earlier but seemingly went out

do you know how to access the secret menu to check for error codes?

Or bring a bluetooth elm327 with you, use it via app on your phone.

Also bring glove,

Put on hand and cover exhaust pipe to feel pressure see if you can kill the engine by covering the pipe,

If you can;

Your either very strong to be able to hold in the build up of pressure

or

The flow is weak due to blocked dpf

Also ask if it ever blew a turbo

if yes how many

find out if they had to remove and clean the sump and replace the turbo feed pipe.

Yes we know it's mandatory that you do after blown turbo if you don't it will blow again very soon.

but ask if they had to get sump removed and cleaned or not.

This way you get a more honest relaxed answer I.e the truth

if it's blown a turbo and it's selling with brand new turbo but sump wasn't cleaned and oil feed replaced then walk away pal only half job done.

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With all that aggro the car would have to be free to even mildly interest me, on a good day, without being intoxicated :)

Really the current owner should pay you to drive it away

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Do you know you lot have a horrible hatred of the 1.6 engine and put people off buying it all the time, it is most likely no less reliable than either the 1.8 or 2.0 diesels in the grand scheme of things.

As said if you look after it and know what to look for then it's a personal choice whether to buy it or not.

My car has done 80K odd now bought with 73k on the clock, yes turbo was making some whining noise which is how some of my problems started, but I checked the oil flow and it was well over the 300ml within 60 secs and there was very little evidence of carbon particles in it.

I have since put a new turbo on without removing the sump or cleaning the oil pickup pipe, and I have done hundreds of miles so far with a fully working turbo. It certainly was not oil flow that was causing my Turbo to pack up in my case.

One of the most critical issues with any car that has a DPF is using the correct grade of Low ash oil from what I am led to believe.

It just gets a bit frustrating to keep hearing people slating the 1.6 engine.

Rant over.

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I've got a 1.6TDCi aswell it's got 170,000 km on clock remapped 2.5" duplex exhaust, egr blanked, dpf gutted and k&n57s large box induction filter.

pushing 35bhp more than stock since 20,000 and never any problems except for drivers side CV joint needs replacing now.

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The failure rate of this engine is very well documented on every Ford & Peugeot Forum, Honest John & Pistonheads amongst many others

That's not say poor maintenance hasn't caused the issues - but as these are all second / third hand cars there's huge difficulty in ascertaining good provenance

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The failure rate of this engine is very well documented on every Ford & Peugeot Forum,

don't forget to mention the Citröen Forum aswell

keeps crashing but does exist

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The failure rate of this engine is very well documented on every Ford & Peugeot Forum, Honest John & Pistonheads amongst many others

That's not say poor maintenance hasn't caused the issues - but as these are all second / third hand cars there's huge difficulty in ascertaining good provenance

Funny that, my mate has a 307 SW with the exact same engine but the 90hp version admittedly without the DPF and his has been totally reliable.

The biggest problem with forums is most people go on to complain of trouble with their car, very few go on a forum to say you know what my car has been totally reliable, therefore it skews the perception of reliability.

I have owned various makes of cars over the years and all of them have had issues, not one would be more reliable than any other mostly.

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Funny that, my mate has a 307 SW with the exact same engine but the 90hp version admittedly without the DPF and his has been totally reliable.

The biggest problem with forums is most people go on to complain of trouble with their car, very few go on a forum to say you know what my car has been totally reliable, therefore it skews the perception of reliability.

I have owned various makes of cars over the years and all of them have had issues, not one would be more reliable than any other mostly.

very valid point mate I'm on here six year's and I totally agree with the above.
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He's evidently been fortunate then, nevertheless I very much doubt the less fortunate people are making it up

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All of my 11 Fords have been reliable without exception

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