Water coolant will always be cooler than the engine block and since thermal transfer can only happen from where it is hot to where it is cold the EGR cooler will never warm the engine up.

What it will do is help remove more of the heat from the engine, the greater the difference in temperature between the two results in a greater exchange of heat from the engine block so in a round about way it slows down the warming up process slightly.

Heres the kicker tho, engines don't like to be hot anyway, the hotter they are equals a greater loss of energy, what's needed is a well lubed up engine running cool.

What is really meant by warming up is actually the oil temperature. Cool thick oil isn't as good at lubing things up as warm runny oil, thick oil means more resistance less power and more heat generated. If the oil is too thin however you will get more wear through fiction which is why its important to have the right oil!

Anyhow, the difference will be minimal as there is a lot more heating up the coolant than just the EGR gasses, but from a technical point of view there will be a small but probably not that noticeable delay in warming a diesel engine whilst blanking the EGRV.

Incidentally, in my opinion there is no reason on earth not to blank off that valve, it is killing machine designed to wreck the engine some time after the initial purchase in the second hand market, usually in the hands of people that can't afford to fix the mess they make of the engine.

The system we have really does suck, those that can afford get to drive around in swanky new cars saving the world whilst everyone else has to pay for it!

Rant over!

:)

Unnoticeable in my experience & that's with 2.2 diesel engines which ordinarily take longer to warm up than smaller diesel engines

EGRV = Engine killer ! :)

Also it's important to remember there are no EGRV gases at idle as the EGRV is closed - as it is at W.O.T.

The ONLY reason EGRV's exist is to assist in the lowering of Nox emissions - whilst quietly destroying your engine

Your right, its probably offset by the increase in heat generated at combustion due to the increase in cool air to fuel ratio, or in other words, it goes off with a bigger bang and creates more heat in doing so. If it were to ever be noticeable it would be on a very cold winters day, the temperature differential is significantly higher which might slow down the warming, short of blocking the EGR valve in the winter to compare the two I doubt anyone would see any real difference.

Inert, spent, recirculated exhaust gas doesn't burn - cool fresh air does :)

Well then it definitely seems I'd be stupid not to do this! :P

Yup, you sure would.

I have read some articles which try to say we shouldn't do this, not just from the green brigade but apparently theres some folk saying that doing so can reduce MPG, personally I think they are talking crap, the science behind their idea seems a little thin especially with the positive air pressure system we have on turbo engine cars.

I can't find a good link but its something to do with pressure after combustion, the piston falling down has to suck in air which effectively means its using energy to pull the air in, with the EGR valve open exhaust gasses can quickly and easily fill the vacuum meaning less power wasted.

If you remove the turbo then there is some logic behind that though I can't imagine running a richer fuel ratio (which is what happens when you reduce clean air and replace it with crap) would help your MPG. Of course if you add the turbo then the positive air pressure would actually force the air in rather than have it sucked in so... meh!

There's no '' seems '' about it - you'd be very wise to do it & sooner rather than '' too later '' :)

My mpg on my old 05 plate Mondeo ST TDCi actually increased slightly after the EGRV was blanked, but at the end of the day that's just a minor benefit

My mpg on my old 05 plate Mondeo ST TDCi actually increased slightly after the EGRV was blanked, but at the end of the day that's just a minor benefit

Lennys mpg improved vastly too

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My MPG has been consistently 68-70 for the past few months so I'm not sure if it'll go up any higher! :D

I assume it's worth doing some sort of internal cleaning at the same time? To try and any soot and crud that builds up in the manifold.

Yes, clean the inlet manifold very CAREFULLY as you don't want lumps of carbon ingressing :)

Your car is almost certainly euro 3 emissions, so you are unlikely to suffer from an illuminated EML as a result of blanking the EGRV

Right, so if the consensus is that I'm talking ball axe about the warming of the engine then I better go stick that plate in at the next opportunity... Got a mot coming up next month (which is very soon), worth waiting until that is out the way?

P.s I apologise if I mislead anyone by my take on the blanking, I was misinformed...

I was surprised Ian as you normally talk sense ( when you're sober ) ! :)

Blank it as soon as poss :)

Blanking an EGRV will not adversely affect diesel MOT smoke test & it should help with the numbers :)

Just to double check, if I do have a DPF, blanking shouldn't affect it as there will be less soot etc. coming out of the engine and through the exhaust right?

Correct :)

I doubt very much ( 99.99 % ) that you have a DPF on a 2004 car

Edited August 26, 201510 yr by MONDEO TXS 2.2

I doubt very much ( 99.99 % ) that you have a DPF on a 2004 car

That's what I was thinking, but there's a big canister looking thing connected to the exhaust that is mounted at the front lower of the engine - might it be the catalytic converter instead?

Yes

We suffered the introduction of DPF's in the U.K. around 2008/9 iirc

euro4 plus DPF was about 2008, they soon changed the design to the ceramic ones from 2009 i believe,

The ceramic ones get hotter quicker and shouldn't have as much of an issued with converting soot to ash as the original ones had but they are still fundermentally flawed.